Zuma Swap?

[95ej2]

Hey everyone, my name is Derek. I am a broke college student :rockon:. I just bought an Eton Beamer that needs some deep lovin. I have the intentions of restoring it and replacing my commutes to school with it, instead of taking my real bike. It looks pretty, but doesn't run. I started taking it apart and things became clear. I bought someones else's mess. Previous owner told me it was only in need of a crankshaft. First thing was tearing the thing apart. I noticed lots of loose screws and even some random missing ones!

I have not gotten to the crank yet because the previous owner cracked the transmission cover (doesn't effect my progress, but adds to later cost equation) and more importantly stripped both of the internal starter gear screws. Again, I am poor college student and I just pondered the best route for the money. Performance is not one of my goals, just fyi. But here is the dilema... Assuming the crank is gone, should I continue and buy a $$$ performance crank + cylinder kit, then replace? or does a horizontal Zuma motor drop in (buy a running whole engine from Ebay)?


- Derek

[90GTVert]

:welcome:

If the best bang use of money is what you're after, I'd suggest getting a decent set of crank bearings (not the Chinese ones some spots sell). You should be fine with a stock replacement crankshaft. The Stock crank will hold up with a sport level big bore kit for sure. By the time you get a BBK, crank, seals, bearings, gaskets, cvt cover, and anything else that is missing it may be close to the price you can find a stock 49cc and bolt it in (just depending what deals you come across on eBay). The Zuma motor should work. Just be aware that when shopping for 1E40QMB engines like you have now, they come in short case and long case versions. You have a long case. The short case won't fit tires and wheels as large.

If you truly wanna learn about 2Ts, doing the rebuild would teach you a lot more than swapping in an engine. If you just wanna bolt in performance, you can get a 90-100cc version of that engine that just bolts in for around $500 and should be capable of 50MPH+ stock.

[2strokd]

:welcome: . Good advice Brent!
Hope you get it up and running .
Be careful tho! These things are addicting :devil:

[Reign]

Feb 11, 2011 9:07:39 GMT -5 2strokd said:

Be careful tho! These things are addicting

I second that. I'm not exactly made of money either, but since I got my scooter in 09, I tend to dump most of what I make into it. It seems like these things are never really "finished" No matter how many things you change.

[95ej2]

Hey everyone! Thanks for the warm welcome and warning regarding the addiction that may arise from modding. This seems like a very knowledgeable forum. I think I want to explore the 90cc route as mentioned from Brent. As people say "No replacement for displacement" and torque would be nice. Also 50mph would pretty much mean the scooter is usable everywhere minus the highway. I do plan on learning with the old motor, but I would like to get the scooter up and running asap. If I went with the 1E50QMF would the bare minimum supporting mods be a new carb and exhaust? And also would all the electronics still be plug and play?

BTW nice thread scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=2strokeissues&action=display&thread=21385

[90GTVert]

That's one of the threads I didn't do. :rofl: If you wanna see my info on 90cc swaps...
49ccscoot.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=yamajog&action=display&thread=999

That covers the essentials including carb and exhaust.

[95ej2]

**Update** Still in the process of getting/borrowing certain tools(ie the puller/case splitter), but I took the head/cylinder off and the reed cage and spun the crank by hand... It is soaked in a pool of red fluid, then it hit me cause it's also the same stuff poured out when I removed my pipe earlier in the process. From the car world this would be ATF, but this is the same oil as what's in my direct oil injection tank (still attached to scooter). Is this two stroke oil or Atf? Also does this point out my problem, like a shot crankshaft bearing/seals? Thanks!

[lshigham]

If it's ATF I'd be very worried indeed!

It should be two stroke oil. How deep is the pool?

[90GTVert]

It could be 2T oil. I don't know who makes red, but it comes in different colors from different manufacturers sometimes.

[2strokd]

Im trying to think of a way you could tell the diff?
Like Brent said, 2T oils come red too. They can come in all sorts of colors! Ive seen nice clear blue to a nasty valcanic ashy looking grey. Either way, get all that stuff cleaned out and start fresh with a bottle of what you KNOW is oil.

[reveeen]

Feb 12, 2011 7:50:29 GMT -5 2strokd said:

Im trying to think of a way you could tell the diff?

ATF, unless it is expensive synthetic, "smells". It is a distinctive smell, and if you must know, it's whale oil. No other commercially available oil smells/feels the same.

So, grab someone with an auto car, and get them to let you smell the transmission dipstick (and no, I'm not being "kinky" here), it is quite distinctive, and hard to mistake.

[90GTVert]

I was gonna say the same thing about smell, but I couldn't figure out how to explain it and we can't get a whiff via the forum. lol It really doesn't matter too much at this point though. As 2strokd said, dump it out and put your oil of choice in there when it's time.

[95ej2]

Well after finding a bottle of gm dexron iii it smells the same . Here is a picture of the pool:



I think I have made up my mind. With spring around the corner, I just wanna :scoot2: so I think I will save up a little and buy a new 90cc then just part this engine.

[90GTVert]

Looks like the threads for a reed block bolt are stripped on top of other issues.

[lshigham]

That really doesn't look like 2T oil, way too thick. I'd be inclined to part it out, if that's the treatment that it's received. You don't know what else may have been butchered on it.

In Europe the standard coloring for 2T oil is red, anything else is an exception.