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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 9, 2016 21:52:35 GMT -5
arkie that's 1 American HP not that Chinese crap.
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Post by kagetenshi on Aug 10, 2016 21:01:28 GMT -5
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 12, 2016 5:07:44 GMT -5
I just worked on chevy tail light assemblies. The OEM and replacement units have a defective contact design for 3157 bulbs. I am replacing the sockets with 1157 type sockets.
EDIT: Update- I got one side done assembled and tested. It took me 18 hours to do the job with the shakes. I am working on the second assy. I left one 3157 socket alone that was brake and tail. I replaced the regular bulb with a white 3157 style LED bulb. Maybe the low current draw will avoid overheating and melting things. I need to replace the white LED bulb with a red one. Neither O-Really or AutoZone had the correct style LED bulb. All they had was crap. In a stop/tail housing with a red lens the white LED is not very bright. It wastes a lot of power making blue and yellow light that is filtered out by the red lens. A red LED bulb puts out it's power in the red color that passes through the red lens. A red LED bulb is much brighter than a white one behind a red lens.
One red lens with a bulb behind it was used for a tail light only in the OEM design. When I modified the bulb socket I set it up for a 1157 bulb with both stop & tail light functions. That gives me two brake light bulbs. I really believe in having good brake lights. I used both filaments wired in parallel in the 1157 turn signal and back up light bulbs also. A little extra brightness can't hurt.
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 14, 2016 15:54:46 GMT -5
So today I changed the oil in the forks of the Hornet. Half way through had to make this tool to get the springs out  |
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Post by birdman on Aug 14, 2016 16:32:00 GMT -5
Changing for oil is something Ive never done. I kinda scared to try it, I wouldnt want to F it up and in turn make my bike unrideable/ dangerous to ride.
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 14, 2016 17:38:49 GMT -5
Changing for oil is something Ive never done. I kinda scared to try it, I wouldnt want to F it up and in turn make my bike unrideable/ dangerous to ride. Right way up forks are very easy to do. Upside down ones are a little more difficult, but not so bad. These were worse as they are 2005 CBR forks without the adjusters. Normally you can access the locking but through the springs, but these you have to push down about 6" |
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 14, 2016 19:38:20 GMT -5
Finished up the other side, 14 hours.  It took me three hours just to get one wire soldered for that extra stop light filament. |
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Post by 190mech on Aug 14, 2016 19:46:28 GMT -5
Annualed a Cessna A185F,2 sailplanes(LS4,1-26) and fixed an electrical problem on a Weatherly 620B,,looong day!!
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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 14, 2016 19:56:52 GMT -5
Changing for oil is something Ive never done. I kinda scared to try it, I wouldnt want to F it up and in turn make my bike unrideable/ dangerous to ride. Standard forks are really easy, one bolt at the bottom. Pop seal out at the top, remove c clip. Pull apart, more like a slide hammer method then clean up the oil mess. Most I've felt with are this method. I'm sure there are others. Like the stage6 that no one seems to know how to rebuild. |
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Post by moofus02 on Aug 16, 2016 9:34:01 GMT -5
Annualed a Cessna A185F,2 sailplanes(LS4,1-26) and fixed an electrical problem on a Weatherly 620B,,looong day!! I miss working on aircraft. It was much better than driving truck lol |
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 16, 2016 18:43:06 GMT -5
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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 16, 2016 19:48:38 GMT -5
I think that should speed up the job. Looks like it belongs there.
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Post by kagetenshi on Aug 16, 2016 23:11:12 GMT -5
I managed to get the steering cable attached and working properly last Thursday. But I had an accident and fell 4 1/2 ft and landed on my sacrum. I called it a day at that point as I was lucky not to have broken anything.
The boat will run and steer now so I guess me and my old man are moving forward? The next step is moving the seats and the depth finder over. Wish us/me luck.
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 17, 2016 2:12:55 GMT -5
I made up a pin-on rig to turn the mower into a sprayer. It had a canopy that I've never used because I think it looks stupid and it would run into tree limbs. It's just sat in the shed for 10 years or more. I used it's mount on the mower and the metal from the canopy, plus some 1" square tubing, to make something easy to install/remove. I have been using a 1.5 gallon hand pump sprayer for the driveway and a couple of other areas. That takes me about 6 hours to do everything. Hopefully the big 12V sprayer will speed that up a lot. Nice work!  Will the 12V charging system on the mower handle the load? They are usually pretty weak like a 50cc scoot. A voltmeter or indicator may be needed. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 17, 2016 6:32:17 GMT -5
I made up a pin-on rig to turn the mower into a sprayer. It had a canopy that I've never used because I think it looks stupid and it would run into tree limbs. It's just sat in the shed for 10 years or more. I used it's mount on the mower and the metal from the canopy, plus some 1" square tubing, to make something easy to install/remove. I have been using a 1.5 gallon hand pump sprayer for the driveway and a couple of other areas. That takes me about 6 hours to do everything. Hopefully the big 12V sprayer will speed that up a lot. Nice work! Will the 12V charging system on the mower handle the load? They are usually pretty weak like a 50cc scoot. A voltmeter or indicator may be needed. Hopefully. The only load I ever put on it are lights, which are just brake light bulbs for headlights basically, and that's while the engine is WOT mowing. Not sure how it will do idling around, but I've got power in the shed so I can put it on a charger after. |
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It took me three hours just to get one wire soldered for that extra stop light filament.
