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Post by birdman on Nov 11, 2016 18:22:27 GMT -5
Maybe you need an a/m ignition inner rotor setup, maybe the stock components cant keep up anymore. What heat range plug are you using? Maybe try a different heat range... IDK just some ideas.
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Post by nelson on Nov 11, 2016 19:56:30 GMT -5
Maybe you need an a/m ignition inner rotor setup, maybe the stock components cant keep up anymore. What heat range plug are you using? Maybe try a different heat range... IDK just some ideas. Br8 I rode home with no air filter and not a single hickup, so smooth. Was 73 outside, will run tomorrow and get a vid if its still good. I need a filter back on there..hrmmm |
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Post by spaz12 on Nov 11, 2016 20:00:30 GMT -5
Hmm, then maybe it's running rich? (with the filter)
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 11, 2016 20:05:55 GMT -5
Maybe you need an a/m ignition inner rotor setup, maybe the stock components cant keep up anymore. What heat range plug are you using? Maybe try a different heat range... IDK just some ideas. Br8 On a C16 and Athena racing? Hmm...myself i'd put a 9 in. I dunno...thats just my first thought. You don't have the carb tuning all sorted out so plug heatrange is stilll kinda guessing what works best on your engine. But that cant be causing the issues you're having now. Did you try some odd sizes jets just for f#cks? Maybe your just kinda put on a wrong trail after doing all this tuning and solving the startup problems? It cant be that hard...you're just overseeing something unless you've been using faulty parts (jets?) the whole time. |
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Post by nelson on Nov 11, 2016 20:13:30 GMT -5
On a C16 and Athena racing? Hmm...myself i'd put a 9 in. I dunno...thats just my first thought. You don't have the carb tuning all sorted out so plug heatrange is stilll kinda guessing what works best on your engine. But that cant be causing the issues you're having now. Did you try some odd sizes jets just for f#cks? Maybe your just kinda put on a wrong trail after doing all this tuning and solving the startup problems? It cant be that hard...you're just overseeing something unless you've been using faulty parts (jets?) the whole time. Thanks for the input. I have been running a br9 and just switched last night when i put new fuel filter and new fuel line. Then i found what i think is a vent hose, i assume it needs one. Will see what happening tommorow.. |
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Post by nelson on Feb 19, 2017 16:34:16 GMT -5
Scoot is getting annoying, don't know if itshe the ignition or jetting. I bought a jet kit with multiple sizes to make sure they were all from same manufacturer. Was runn8ng a 92 and when I pop in new plug runs like a champ for 100 miles or so. Then it will start the sputtering like a miss. Sometimes it just picks up power again. I swapped an 88 main because it keeps fouling the plug. Same problem after about 100 miles. Plug is fouled. I ground a spot to bare metal because I thought maybe it had bad ground at the coil. This didn't help either. It's rideable but have to change the plug every couple of rides and it's annoying. It looks oil fouled as the plug isn't black or dark. Is it possible water is leaking into cylinder? I wouldn't think so but I'm open to ideas?
Also, it seems like it runs best around 185f degrees. I was told this was to hot but I dunno?
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Post by moofus02 on Feb 19, 2017 18:16:50 GMT -5
Ngk plugs get hotter as the number gets smaller? I thought they were backwards of everyone else. Lc will run cooler than an ac I would go to a hotter plug
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Post by moofus02 on Feb 19, 2017 18:19:04 GMT -5
I bought a sled once because it would start on first pull and run but not move. Plugs looked good but I changed them and it came alive
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 19, 2017 18:21:34 GMT -5
Im sure it is (still) something electrical. Otherwise that moment where you start experiencing problems (you mentioned after about 100miles) would've arisen way earlier and more often. If it was something mechanical you would start seeing problems every single time the engine would reach a certain temp or when you put it under a certain load. And from your story I can conclude it's not temperature related.
Have you tried a different cdi? I once bought an Athena cdi which I later found was faulty. It made the engine sputter from 8k rpm and up. Switched to another (stock) cdi and the whole problem instantly disappeared!
Have your tried swapping over every single part from the complete ignition system? From stator to ignition switch to flywheel?
When a problem isn't (engine)temperature related, isn't showing a consistant or significant pattern...it's most likely electrical.
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Post by ryan_ott on Feb 19, 2017 19:31:56 GMT -5
When is the last time you've done a leak test? A certain temperature may be making an intake/case leak just enough to piss you off. Also if your using a PWK style carb the jet block gasket could devolop a leak (espically an older OKO) and would throw off your tune.
Another thing worth trying is putting a new plug wire cap on, they are cheap enough.
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 20, 2017 1:56:40 GMT -5
Yes, Ryan might be right. Maybe an airleak develops over time due to whatever reason.
Do a leakdown test or when you don't feel like it do the 'brakeparts cleaner test' from time to time.
How an airleak + brakeparts cleaner sounds:
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Post by nelson on Feb 20, 2017 19:13:49 GMT -5
When is the last time you've done a leak test? A certain temperature may be making an intake/case leak just enough to piss you off. Also if your using a PWK style carb the jet block gasket could devolop a leak (espically an older OKO) and would throw off your tune. Another thing worth trying is putting a new plug wire cap on, they are cheap enough. I bought a nice rubber ngk cap. I am using a shitty pwk China carb. Leak test was done after assembly, less than 1k miles sgo. |
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Post by nelson on Feb 20, 2017 19:18:08 GMT -5
Im sure it is (still) something electrical. Otherwise that moment where you start experiencing problems (you mentioned after about 100miles) would've arisen way earlier and more often. If it was something mechanical you would start seeing problems every single time the engine would reach a certain temp or when you put it under a certain load. And from your story I can conclude it's not temperature related. Have you tried a different cdi? I once bought an Athena cdi which I later found was faulty. It made the engine sputter from 8k rpm and up. Switched to another (stock) cdi and the whole problem instantly disappeared! Have your tried swapping over every single part from the complete ignition system? From stator to ignition switch to flywheel? When a problem isn't (engine)temperature related, isn't showing a consistant or significant pattern...it's most likely electrical. I have swapped cdi. I don't have a cover over the flywheel. Wondered maybe the pickup rusted but that would be weird but could happen...all ignition parts are getting swapped One at a time. |
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Post by nelson on Feb 20, 2017 19:20:57 GMT -5
Ngk plugs get hotter as the number gets smaller? I thought they were backwards of everyone else. Lc will run cooler than an ac I would go to a hotter plug Like a br8? Vs br9? Will try that as well. Is it harder to foul a hotter plug? It's like a miss when it starts acting up. Then I know my plug is getting trashed. After that it's down hill till I pop in a new one. Then it's like brand new! |
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Post by nelson on Feb 20, 2017 19:22:24 GMT -5
Thanks guys, I made a vid on a cheap go pro knock off. Just have to figure how to download/upload. Let me check that out,it was running solid that day.
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