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Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 28, 2019 3:32:03 GMT -5
A Hebo crank is interesting. They make bicycle and Trials motorcycle parts. I would think a Hebo crank to be stout, but not high rpm? Not sure! I would love to know more.
BTW...when my son was 10, he was the top freestyle, backstroke, butterfly swimmer in Northern California. Two weeks before the Championship meet, we went to a local event. He qualified way above everyone in those events. However, during lunch. he decided to get some time in on his new longboard.
Famous last words: "Hey Dad, watch me rip this!" Broken wrist, both bones. Surgical fix. Somehow, through guile and love, we got the meet officials to allow him to swim the finals in butterfly at the championships. (Pre-bent position) Qualified number 1...finished number 8 out of nine...with a cast on his arm!
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Post by 808ministroke on Dec 30, 2019 1:52:53 GMT -5
Yah the crank is called a hebo manston and it is high primary compression and rated up to 18000 rpm
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 5, 2020 7:07:54 GMT -5
Okay I really need some help with this in the form of suggestions from my online brothers. Okay so I got the engine rebuilt.... back on the frame.... great spark...... need two do compression check for official numbers but compression feels much better so here is my minor dilemma..... first off I didn’t wanna kick it all day and I remember adding a good deal of oil in the crank case to make sure bearings were good. ( ps. The caseworker that bored it out was a master it was magnificent 👌) anyway so I ended up on New Years because it was loud as hell like always is in Hawaii I used my drill something I learned from Brent’s vids. It kept giving issues on the variator side but worked with the flywheel side but I was only able to start it once. This was after I emptied all the coolant because of a badly seated gasket on the outer cover so of coarse I didn’t wanna let it run very long with brand new ring and no coolant. Immediately after I tried to kick it over and could not. I tried the next day with a new gasket and coolant but couldn’t get it to start. I noticed that there was wetness in the header pipe so I even tried to start with that detached. Had no luck after the carb and exhaust ports felt really wet with either oil or maybe even coolant somehow although I don’t see how unless introduced by the coolant that leaked into exhaust? Any help would be great or ideas on how to dry it out quickly. Thanks.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 5, 2020 10:09:02 GMT -5
Pull the plug out and spin it over, that should help clear it out. The first few starts after a rebuild seem to be tough until you get the assembly oil burnt off. Some fuel directly in the cylinder or a unlit propane torch may also help get it started. Did you leak test it after assembly?
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 5, 2020 11:15:22 GMT -5
No I didn’t do leak down test and I’m not sure if a compression gauge will show a leak , correct? It shoots to highest level of compression and stays there or if it says 100 psi and 1hour later still reads100 psi does that confirm no leak. Also I doubt it’s a crank sealing issue. Also forgot to tell you guys that I checked the pep cot and it is always pumping gas without any suction. I drained the gas and it was really dark I’m guessing that I added a lot of oil to th e small amount of gas. Just got a new gas when the sun comes out I’m gunna try it with new gas.🤞
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 5, 2020 11:28:35 GMT -5
Most compression gauges hold the maximum reading until you press the little valve near the gauge, so they are not a good indicator of a leak.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 5, 2020 12:10:01 GMT -5
Double check you don’t have a gap where the boost port is... I recall a mismatch there and having to build up that area on the case with JB to correct the match.
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 5, 2020 13:39:26 GMT -5
I see why you would be talking about seeing that the tripple boost port at the top is very wide although I checked with the cylinder off and just the base gasket and the cutting of the case was done perfect although not too sure if I’m going to have to re-torque the cylinder nuts again . Went out to try and start it with you gaasNoticed that two of the threads are stripped four bolts holding the intake manifold this could easily be my problem I’m gonna see about trying it with the polini three60 that has a much better chance of sealing with two or three bolts Thanks for your input everybody
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 5, 2020 20:26:19 GMT -5
When you speak a little propane torch Ryan You mean letting gas is propane gas into the spark plug hole and then putting the spark plug back on and trying to start or taking spark plug off dealing with propane and then waiting for paint to warm the engine up one of these things if not both sound crazy 😝 just might work
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Post by ryan_ott on Jan 5, 2020 20:35:43 GMT -5
I mean into the carb opening. Try clearing it out first and consider a leak test.
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 6, 2020 9:45:27 GMT -5
Yes a leak test is in the future for sure as well as adding wider threads to at least one of the intake bolt holes . I have to make a leak tester but I do have a few things for that just never thought of making one...... that’s amazing when I have been working on two stroke mopeds for like six years now.
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 6, 2020 9:47:32 GMT -5
All of this due to fact I wasn’t able to start it . 🗣🤷🏻♂️
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Post by geoffh on Jan 6, 2020 10:06:56 GMT -5
I got a bit lost during this ,but a few posts up from here you say the pet cock opens without suction ,that's not good replace it or even better fit a manual one,you may have flooded the crankcase remove the reed block and syphon any gunk out then leave it to air out,rebuild and try again with fresh fuel,I prefer the commercial cold start aerosols sprayed in the filter over more extreme methods,keep us posted.
Geoff
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 7, 2020 6:41:36 GMT -5
Geoff spelled like my step dad, I was going to get over look this constant flow of fuel because it was like this before and rode fine. I thought that my petcot stuck in on position was just like a manual that was always on..... I did recently buy a brand new petcot and these are the motor bike looking ones and xpensive n hard to find. The thing that gets me is that I was able to get it started once!!!! I should have let it run longer but had no coolant in the cylinder I will definitely keep u guys posted and you guys rock
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Post by 808ministroke on Jan 30, 2020 7:41:24 GMT -5
Okay so I have been waiting to update this build for awhile have been more into fixing up my other rexy . Anyway like I said earlier I was only able to start it up once since I replaced ring and gasket I did a few compression tests and got 110 psi so I will eventually take it apart n check ring placement. I think it is likely related to two of the four threads used to hold intake are stripped n when try start it today I noticed a small amount of prbly gas by intake manifold also noticed a destinct odd backfire from exhaust sometimes a second after I kicked it over. What do you guys think is causing the no start low compression or intake leak? I have good spark.
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