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Post by harleyracer59 on Oct 24, 2019 21:44:59 GMT -5
the restricted 94 elite S- sa50p? had a single cable. or an 85 nb50 aero50. theyre longest single cable scooters I can think of... if I think of any others, ill post them for you.
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on Oct 31, 2019 16:39:18 GMT -5
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on Nov 2, 2019 16:19:48 GMT -5
Today was a good day! I did lots of things to the little scoot: managed to take all the gunk off of the frame, changed the wrist-pin and the cage roller bearing. The piston and the cylinder are in excellent condition. I don't know if they are the original ones tho. Had a look on the cover of the final gear tranny, and thought that would be nice to change the oil inside of it. The problem is that i could not locate the drain bolt. Removed the center bolt, no oil leaking so I assume that this is the filling port. Any one can give me some guidance over this? Is something that I'm missing? Also, the hose should be connected to something else or should be plugged?  |
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Post by pitobread on Nov 2, 2019 17:06:54 GMT -5
hose normally goes into the airbox, most just turn it down and leave it by the rear brake arm
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on Nov 3, 2019 3:03:42 GMT -5
Hmmm, might work a look to see the airbox if there is any port dedicated for this hose.
Regarding the transmission oil change,any idea?
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Post by harleyracer59 on Nov 3, 2019 19:29:49 GMT -5
I want to say the drain is the lowest 8mm bolt below the fill hole/bolt. ill go look when I get a chance.
as for the vent hose, yes your air box should have a hole towards the rear that the hose goes into. you could always loop it over, so the end is facing down. and attach it to the shock with a zip tie. cut the end of it at a 45*. then slice it an inch from the 45* back. (this will keep it from clogging with dirt.)
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on Nov 4, 2019 0:07:44 GMT -5
I want to say the drain is the lowest 8mm bolt below the fill hole/bolt. ill go look when I get a chance. as for the vent hose, yes your air box should have a hole towards the rear that the hose goes into. you could always loop it over, so the end is facing down. and attach it to the shock with a zip tie. cut the end of it at a 45*. then slice it an inch from the 45* back. (this will keep it from clogging with dirt.) I took the lowest 8 mm bolt but no luck. Apparently there is no drain bolt on this model. I'll improvise using a small diameter hose and a syringe. Got myself some goodies: scored an entire Dio AF35 engine (the one with horizontal cylinder) for 20$ and a full front end for 40$ (when I say full, i mean full - headlight (yellow one), speedo, cables, controls, fairings, fork, wheel, brake system) The engine needs to be put back (cylinder, piston, etc) but I find that a good price. The front end is going to be put on my scoot, it has a disc - Yay for me! The engine...got no plans with it. Maybe I can sell it on ebay or so to get some of the money back. Any idea how much a headlight assembly / speedometer and a complete engine for an AF35, are worthing? |
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on Nov 5, 2019 16:13:48 GMT -5
Working an hour or two after the office job gets me a slow progress but it's something that makes me happy rather than no progress. After cleaning all the gunk from the engine / frame, I greased everything and started the assembly. I'm preparing it for the technical inspection. The build will get in the second phase in the winter when I'll redo everything.       image uploaderI'm happy about how it turned out till now. Soon I'll try to start it for the first time in a long time. Regarding the manual fuel/oil premix ratio, what do you guys recommend? I found answers varying from 20:1 to 30:1 (fuel to oil parts) |
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Post by pitobread on Nov 5, 2019 18:26:12 GMT -5
40:1 or 50:1 are fine. Af34 motors aren't that sought after, the disk front is a good haul though.
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on Nov 6, 2019 3:14:11 GMT -5
40:1 or 50:1 are fine. Af34 motors aren't that sought after, the disk front is a good haul though. For $20 I think an AF35 engine is a good deal. I don't know if I'll use it or sell it, or the state of it, but I'll take a chance on it. Tonight I'll get one or two more hours of working on the scoot. Can't wait to get home. |
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on Nov 7, 2019 2:21:01 GMT -5
Last night worked some more:
The Good:
Fitted the exhaust, airbox, replaced some bolts using stainless steel bolts.
Managed to start the scooter using some fuel/oil mix ina bottle and a hose.
The Bad:
The rattling sound still persists. I thought it's from the top end. Changed the wrist-pin, top end bearing, cylinder has no wear, piston has no wear. There is no play in the connecting rod.
Have a look / listen the sound it makes from the 0:21 second mark.
What I want to try next:
- Replace exhaust - maybe there is something that rattles inside of it (if you rock it you can hear something but I think they are carbon deposits...this sound is more metalic)
- Open the variator / transmission and inspect everything there
- Repeat the tests w/o variator (need to buy a battery so I can start it)
Any other ideas?
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Post by harleyracer59 on Nov 10, 2019 17:29:45 GMT -5
have you pulled the variator before? does it have grease in it or is it dry? if its dry, it might be the roller. if theres grease in there, I doubt its that.
might be crank bearings. pull variator and flywheel, then check for play. thet might be good radially up down left right)
but you might have axial play. in/ out.
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goodkat
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 178
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Post by goodkat on Nov 11, 2019 1:10:46 GMT -5
have you pulled the variator before? does it have grease in it or is it dry? if its dry, it might be the roller. if theres grease in there, I doubt its that. might be crank bearings. pull variator and flywheel, then check for play. thet might be good radially up down left right) but you might have axial play. in/ out. I haven't checked the variator. God knows when that thing was opened last time, regarding the dust and soot this scoot had around everything. As I understand, the 12mm crank thread is prone to failure if it's not handled right. Can I use an impact wrench to only to loose the variator nut / clutch nut? Or would be better to make / buy a flywheel locking tool and remove the nut manually using a wrench? Mounting back would be manually. Also, I did not know that the variator rollers should be greased. Any more info? Thanks! |
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Post by harleyracer59 on Nov 11, 2019 2:25:46 GMT -5
in my experience, its the splines that strip if the outer pulley isn't set on them properly. ive stripped a few nuts from installing and removing multiple times. ive also stripped the splines. I use an impact to remove and install. all that being said, you could possibly strip the threads if you hit the nut on there tight then kept going. I haven't tried that. just use a little Loctite on the nut threads when you install the nut with the impact. after tight, hammer it 2-4 pulls of the trigger and call it good. I guess the proper way would be to impact off. install with Loctite and a torque wrench to proper spec. thatll save you the stress of over tightening the nut.
also, on flywheel side, put a dab of antisieze on the crankshaft taper. not the nut threads but the taper where the keyway is. it will make future removal a lot easier.
the rollers get grease from honda originally. most clean it all out and run the rollers dry when reinstalling them. I run mine dry. grease isn't good for belt grip.....
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