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Post by oldgeek on Nov 19, 2019 16:08:01 GMT -5
I got the cylinder installed. I had to use stock head bolts because I was unable to find studs the right length anywhere I looked. Now I know what the spacers they sent me were for.  I also sealed up the reeds and intake. I snapped a picture of the stock reed assembly I modified, and also the JB weld back filler I made for the reed block. I doubt it will add more than a few xtra miles per hour to this build.   |
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 19, 2019 20:14:29 GMT -5
Oldgeek, PM me if you really want a stud kit for the stoker bore. I always see them posted on CL Oahu. Several local shops also stud kits here. If you really want a kit i can pick up a set and mail it to, no problem. I really interested in seeing what the 50mm PG bore can do because i still plan on getting that bore kit. I have my MHR replica mocked up and assembled on the block. However, i have been holding back from final assembly because i am waiting to see how the PG bore performs.
--edit-- i checked my texts from a local craigslist seller. Stainless steel stud kit (according to his listing) $20.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 19, 2019 20:37:20 GMT -5
I actually had to file the ring end gaps to get them to spec, not used to having to do that! Did a final check on the cylinder and base spacer, then cleaned them up. I hope to get it sealed up and installed tomorrow in between jobs at work. Sometimes i wonder if PG does that on purpose. To make it so that tuners that know what they are doing can get better performance. I seen pictures from a former local shop in which they were welding up several brand new PG Long pipes. Then, months later i came across the Scooter Swap Shop exhaust dyno testing video. And there it was, "the PG flip cone" modified pipe. It seems like only the people in-the-know knew that the PG Longs performed much better with the inner cone "flipped". |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 19, 2019 22:21:09 GMT -5
Oldgeek, PM me if you really want a stud kit for the stoker bore. I always see them posted on CL Oahu. Several local shops also stud kits here. If you really want a kit i can pick up a set and mail it to, no problem. I really interested in seeing what the 50mm PG bore can do because i still plan on getting that bore kit. I have my MHR replica mocked up and assembled on the block. However, i have been holding back from final assembly because i am waiting to see how the PG bore performs. --edit-- i checked my texts from a local craigslist seller. Stainless steel stud kit (according to his listing) $20. This cylinder is not a stroker kit. Believe it or not the issue is all the stud kits I can get are too long. Somehow the stock headbolts are even too long for this kit. That is why they send you spacers with the kit. I had no clue what they were for at first. Bottom left corner are the spacers I am talking about. If you want one of these kits let me know, I can order you one the next time I see one listed and ship it to you.  I actually had to file the ring end gaps to get them to spec, not used to having to do that! Did a final check on the cylinder and base spacer, then cleaned them up. I hope to get it sealed up and installed tomorrow in between jobs at work. Sometimes i wonder if PG does that on purpose. To make it so that tuners that know what they are doing can get better performance. I seen pictures from a former local shop in which they were welding up several brand new PG Long pipes. Then, months later i came across the Scooter Swap Shop exhaust dyno testing video. And there it was, "the PG flip cone" modified pipe. It seems like only the people in-the-know knew that the PG Longs performed much better with the inner cone "flipped". I know nothing about that flip, sounds interesting. I only have a PG short, I am going to use the short with this build. |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 20, 2019 0:29:40 GMT -5
I realized that this motor will be done soon and I would have to pull the 103 out of Naked Kymco to put this one in. I have been having too much fun riding the 103 so i dont want to screw with that one right now. I guess it's time to get my red Kymco ZX that I got from pinkscoot a year or so ago on the road. It might take a little while.  |
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 20, 2019 0:46:49 GMT -5
The stud kit i got with the MHR replica from QwikFix Garage is for regular stroke bores. That's what i have mocked up on my block. I can get it if you like.
Scooter Swap Shop ranked the PG flip-cone at #3. #1 2Fast. #2 C16. #3 PG flip cone. #4 Arrow. The flip-cone was a pipe that was sent to them from Hawaii for dyno testing along with some Scorpions and a stock PG Long. Neat stuff.
--edit--
Thanks for the offer to order the PG bore. The owner at QwikFix told me that he could get that bore kit if i wanted it. From what i gather, PG products here on Oahu come through VTcycles, a shop known on Hondaspree forum.
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Post by 190mech on Nov 20, 2019 5:04:32 GMT -5
I too would like to see more info on how the 'flip cone' mod is done..
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 21, 2019 14:03:24 GMT -5
I too would like to see more info on how the 'flip cone' mod is done.. I was curious too, so I scanned through the SSS dyno shootout vids. It made 1.5HP more than the standard version and sounds better but the best tech info I got out of the vids is that it had to be cut apart and re-welded and that the baffles were fixed. So basically they didn't know either or didn't want to share. It was sent to them from someone in HI. A ported 72cc Corsa makes 10-11WHP with the right exhaust according to those vids. We all know that's wrong. I think they must have had the rear brake on or put a restrictor in there somewhere. I guess they're trying to keep it a secret that the Corsa really makes 40-50HP and is good for 90-100MPH. |
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Post by 190mech on Nov 21, 2019 18:49:55 GMT -5
One day,when I win the lottery,I'll buy a Corsa cylinder so a seat belt will need to be installed to stay on my scoot!  Honestly,all the port maps Ive seen from this mystical cylinder are quite mild,maybe I'm missing something..  |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 21, 2019 19:27:58 GMT -5
...........maybe I'm missing something.. You are, mountains! |
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Post by nelson on Nov 22, 2019 19:01:32 GMT -5
I have heard a lot about the corsa ,
iirc they are beast on the af16.
OG I have the rhq for years thing hasn't let me down yet
Should be a solid build!
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 24, 2019 20:45:44 GMT -5
Well I hit a major roadblock. I made a video but I forgot to bring the cable home for the Iphone so I could transfer the video. I will post it sometime tomorrow I hope. A couple years ago I purchased 2 of these big name cranks. At the time, I used one immediately and it was perfect and has been running great for quite a while now. I pulled the second one off of the shelf to use in this build. I just tried to install the variator only to find it was machined wrong/poorly on the variator side. The splines are undersized, and the threads are not finished, you cannot even thread a nut onto the shaft. Its a hell of a time to find this out, after the build is almost done.  There is no fix for it. I contacted the seller about it, but it has been so long I would be surprised if they do anything about it. I have done a decent amount of business with them going back to 2013, so I will wait and see. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 24, 2019 20:56:04 GMT -5
That is unlucky. Hopefully they will replace it as a good will gesture.
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Post by pitobread on Nov 24, 2019 21:27:58 GMT -5
I can probably turn the threads down for you if sending it my way is feasable or 190 may be closer... as for the undersized splines... JB weld or locktite just to fill it in after you snug it up? Not a great fix but might be a good enough one
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 24, 2019 23:31:24 GMT -5
Not as simple as getting a die to go over the threads I guess or you would have done it already. If the threads aren't tiny (no idea what these have), they shouldn't be a big deal. Before I switched to a torque stick, I ground down and re-threaded multiple cranks for the Minarelli engines from 12mm to 10mm or sometimes standard sizes that were close.
If the splines are off much, that's a tough one. I usually get wear on splined bits over time anyway, so I don't know how well anything will hold up. I guess if you can get the threads in good shape though, you don't have much to lose trying something.
Crossing my fingers for you that the seller will help you out for being a long time customer and you won't have to worry about any of the above.
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