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Post by birdman on Dec 27, 2019 19:12:37 GMT -5
No refund?!
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 27, 2019 19:22:14 GMT -5
Since my last post, I did receive another email from the vendor kindly offering me a refund. Kinda feel bad about it all since apparently there is nothing wrong with it. I think I will just ask for a store credit.
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Post by 190mech on Dec 27, 2019 19:34:44 GMT -5
Yeah,its 'manufacturing tolerance' like using a 5/8" hole for a 1/2" bolt..Wonder why Honda or even the Chinarelli's didnt adopt that thought pattern??  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 27, 2019 19:55:01 GMT -5
I thought it was odd that I kept seeing weld-on variator kits with bonus thread chasers. Makes sense now.  |
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 10:24:12 GMT -5
I got the cylinder installed. I had to use stock head bolts because I was unable to find studs the right length anywhere I looked. Now I know what the spacers they sent me were for.  I also sealed up the reeds and intake. I snapped a picture of the stock reed assembly I modified, and also the JB weld back filler I made for the reed block. I doubt it will add more than a few xtra miles per hour to this build.   Oldgeek, The shop i went to yesterday sells stud kits. I bought a 105mm stainless steel set. I think it would suit your bore. The studs i used on my DD50 engine build initially were 120mm. Pretty long. I actually had to use a washer between the head and stud nut. It also had a lot of threads protruding past the nut when torqued. I think it was a stud kit for mini stroker and full stroker. The 105 set has 20mm of threads on each end. The unthreaded shank is 65mm. No threads protruding when torqued up. I thought of you when i seen that 105mm set. |
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Post by pitobread on Jan 15, 2020 12:03:52 GMT -5
I've always thought about stuffing that dead space on CT manifolds..
Case volume is huge on these motors with such a long intake tract and all the oil pump business.
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 15, 2020 17:01:42 GMT -5
repherence2 I think those would work fine, I may ask you to pick a set up for me if I ever decide to get going on this build again. I lost interest working on it due to the crank BS. I have been directing my energy to the 103cc when I have scooter time.
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 15, 2020 17:11:36 GMT -5
I've always thought about stuffing that dead space on CT manifolds.. Case volume is huge on these motors with such a long intake tract and all the oil pump business. For quite a while I have been thinking about how to straighten out and enlarge the intake on these Kymcos. So far nothing I have thought of will do much IMO. Perhaps something like you did on one of your builds with the cylinder adapter and intake made into one piece is the only decent solution. |
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 20:56:54 GMT -5
repherence2 I think those would work fine, I may ask you to pick a set up for me if I ever decide to get going on this build again. I lost interest working on it due to the crank BS. I have been directing my energy to the 103cc when I have scooter time. I totally understand Oldgeek. I feel your pain. I'm off from work this weekend so I'll be hitting up the moped shops again on Saturday. My plan is to pick up another stud kit (so i have a back up set). I'll grab you a set too since he has it in stock right now. No problem, no worries. As far as your crankshaft goes, do you want me to source one for you? Im pretty sure the shop (808Cycles) that i got the stud kit from has the MHR crank. Those are common here at shops and on Craigslist. Im pretty sure the owner at 808Cycles would let me fit up the variator parts before i purchase it. He has drive faces in stock. He also has KELI variators and SEF ramp plates too. If not, no big deal. Im actually planning on getting an MHR crank for myself for future use, in case my Taiwan crank blows up. Let me know what you think. I will do a price and availability check this weekend. |
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 16, 2020 22:33:04 GMT -5
repherence2 I think those would work fine, I may ask you to pick a set up for me if I ever decide to get going on this build again. I lost interest working on it due to the crank BS. I have been directing my energy to the 103cc when I have scooter time. I totally understand Oldgeek. I feel your pain. I'm off from work this weekend so I'll be hitting up the moped shops again on Saturday. My plan is to pick up another stud kit (so i have a back up set). I'll grab you a set too since he has it in stock right now. No problem, no worries. As far as your crankshaft goes, do you want me to source one for you? Im pretty sure the shop (808Cycles) that i got the stud kit from has the MHR crank. Those are common here at shops and on Craigslist. Im pretty sure the owner at 808Cycles would let me fit up the variator parts before i purchase it. He has drive faces in stock. He also has KELI variators and SEF ramp plates too. If not, no big deal. Im actually planning on getting an MHR crank for myself for future use, in case my Taiwan crank blows up. Let me know what you think. I will do a price and availability check this weekend. Man, I wish I could go with you! Stores that actually have 2T parts, nothing like that around here. I am eventually looking for rads for a future LC build, see what they have to offer if you can. THANKS! |
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Post by oldgeek on Apr 10, 2020 21:16:46 GMT -5
Its been almost three months since I posted anything on this build. I am going to try and finish this motor, again. I picked out my best used stock Kymco crank and used slip bearings to install it in the cases temporarily. The stock Kymco crank sets up very close to where the MHR crank was. Squish is in the mid .70's and at BDC the piston top is flush with the bottom of the transfers. I won't bother to set up the degree wheel, durations should be close to what they were with the MHR crank 186/130. I found some cylinder studs that will work with this cylinder and I installed them, so I won't need to use the stock style head bolts I used during the last assembly.
I noticed a while back that the reed I cut for my modified stock reed block does not completely seal. There is a slight curve in the reed that comes from the way the carbon fiber sheets I cut the reed from are formed. I have tried a couple things like adding a short backer reed to the existing reed but I can still see light coming through the side edge of the reed. If I cannot get the reed to seal properly, I may just switch to a CT style intake and reed block.
Since my 103 motor trashed its crank and I will likely not be putting it back together, I have pulled the gears from the 103 gearbox to use for this build.
I think I have everything I need to put this motor together this weekend, so cross your fingers Lol!
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Post by Kenho21 on Apr 11, 2020 0:00:08 GMT -5
Good luck! I think I’ve had all the bag luck lately, so you should be good to go haha.
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Post by repherence2 on Apr 16, 2020 21:16:34 GMT -5
Its been almost three months since I posted anything on this build. I am going to try and finish this motor, again. I picked out my best used stock Kymco crank and used slip bearings to install it in the cases temporarily. The stock Kymco crank sets up very close to where the MHR crank was. Squish is in the mid .70's and at BDC the piston top is flush with the bottom of the transfers. I won't bother to set up the degree wheel, durations should be close to what they were with the MHR crank 186/130. I found some cylinder studs that will work with this cylinder and I installed them, so I won't need to use the stock style head bolts I used during the last assembly. I noticed a while back that the reed I cut for my modified stock reed block does not completely seal. There is a slight curve in the reed that comes from the way the carbon fiber sheets I cut the reed from are formed. I have tried a couple things like adding a short backer reed to the existing reed but I can still see light coming through the side edge of the reed. If I cannot get the reed to seal properly, I may just switch to a CT style intake and reed block. Since my 103 motor trashed its crank and I will likely not be putting it back together, I have pulled the gears from the 103 gearbox to use for this build. I think I have everything I need to put this motor together this weekend, so cross your fingers Lol! Oldgeek, my apologies for not getting that box of parts out to you. It's been sitting here for weeks/months. I'll try to send it out to you this weekend. Sorry for the delay. |
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Post by oldgeek on Apr 17, 2020 6:20:48 GMT -5
Its been almost three months since I posted anything on this build. I am going to try and finish this motor, again. I picked out my best used stock Kymco crank and used slip bearings to install it in the cases temporarily. The stock Kymco crank sets up very close to where the MHR crank was. Squish is in the mid .70's and at BDC the piston top is flush with the bottom of the transfers. I won't bother to set up the degree wheel, durations should be close to what they were with the MHR crank 186/130. I found some cylinder studs that will work with this cylinder and I installed them, so I won't need to use the stock style head bolts I used during the last assembly. I noticed a while back that the reed I cut for my modified stock reed block does not completely seal. There is a slight curve in the reed that comes from the way the carbon fiber sheets I cut the reed from are formed. I have tried a couple things like adding a short backer reed to the existing reed but I can still see light coming through the side edge of the reed. If I cannot get the reed to seal properly, I may just switch to a CT style intake and reed block. Since my 103 motor trashed its crank and I will likely not be putting it back together, I have pulled the gears from the 103 gearbox to use for this build. I think I have everything I need to put this motor together this weekend, so cross your fingers Lol! Oldgeek, my apologies for not getting that box of parts out to you. It's been sitting here for weeks/months. I'll try to send it out to you this weekend. Sorry for the delay. No worries bro, lack of parts is not the reason I haven't finished it. I was planning on slapping it together this past weekend, but you know how life can get in the way. |
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Post by oldgeek on May 2, 2021 5:49:26 GMT -5
I still want to build this motor, so a while back I ordered another Malossi MHR crank for this motor, from a different vendor than the first one. I dont know what is going on, but the outer drive face fits sloppy loose on this new crank too  For my first Kymco build I used one of these Malossi MHR cranks and I do not remember having this problem on that build. And that motor is still running strong with many miles and loads of variator tuning. I am stumped on this. I just wanted to get this motor done so I could put it in the original naked Kymco and get it back on the road until I have time to finish my current build. I think I may have found evidence there is a slight difference in these cranks depending on which motor it is for. This feebay Seller talks about it. He offers two different cranks, one for the "Honda Elite DIO AF17 AF18 AF27 AF28 SR50.." and one for the "Honda DIO AF34 AF35 ZX50 Kymco ZX34 ZX35" The seller mentions in the description of the cranks there are differences, but I am not completely sure what he is talking about. |
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