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Post by Zino on Aug 22, 2020 8:52:22 GMT -5
Good to hear your on the mend . That "Test Ride" could have been so much worse.
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 27, 2020 6:33:46 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 27, 2020 6:37:35 GMT -5
Good to hear your on the mend . That "Test Ride" could have been so much worse. You can say that again..... Go ahead say it.
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 27, 2020 16:36:41 GMT -5
The pipe will hold it back for sure. It won't want to rev much past its peak power. Will just make less power the more it revs.
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Post by 808ministroke on Aug 28, 2020 4:15:46 GMT -5
So I Switched back to the single piston from a double piston front brake because the double piston one was hardly making any contact on such a small disk that comes stock on these Now at least they can stop pretty damm well using the front and back breaks lol together. The mounting holes on these rims are smaller than a lot of the other mounting holes on bigger disks so it's hard to find a bigger disk that will fit for cheap The fat front tire that I have on now is one with a completely worn out disk which I'm planning on switching with the thin tired in the images I included a close up of each disk so you can see . I think a sinner front tire might actually be kind of cool as well as it might make the bike just a little bit lighter and speed wheelies that mu h easier. Without even attempting to hit any sort of top speed but giving it some gas I hit 54 mph I'm thinking with lighter rollers maybe it better jets I'm sure I can hit 60 no problem with the stock gears, However I have my eye on a set That says it's an 18% increase A little nervous however to do the swap just because I haven't ever seen this kind of transmission on the inside Anybody with experience doing gear swaps what's the style of Indian let me know if there's any specialty tools that I will need. and here is a glimpse of the pc fan i have built into the back of the radiator mount. Its a cooler master from a customwater cool D pc , even The bearings were upgraded on these fans to silent ceramic bearings . Still need to drill mire holesin tje seat ofcoarse wich is ok because i get the glove box whichis usual Cut uup qhen rad is front mounted. And the cool thing is I've shown it to a few people they totally dig the whole bike and then right before I leave I open up the see and not until then do they actually realize it's water cooled so I would say this passes the sleeper test 100%. One serious question has to do with a boost bottle that I had attached to the intake I usually like to use these and pretty much always notice a slight increase in low end however I was worried that the hose attachment was leaking air possibly at the intake nipple however I would always shut the bike off by simply putting my hand over the mouth of the carb And it always shuts off instantly so this would suggest that there is no leak from the boost bottle correct? I took it off just to be safe but wanna put it back on now.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 28, 2020 7:02:32 GMT -5
One serious question has to do with a boost bottle that I had attached to the intake I usually like to use these and pretty much always notice a slight increase in low end however I was worried that the hose attachment was leaking air possibly at the intake nipple however I would always shut the bike off by simply putting my hand over the mouth of the carb And it always shuts off instantly so this would suggest that there is no leak from the boost bottle correct? I took it off just to be safe but wanna put it back on now. A pressure/leak test would be the way to find out for sure if there's a leak there. Having it shut off when you cover the mouth of the carb doesn't mean it's not leaking anywhere. I've seen some pics here with an air filter and some without. It's not advisable to run without a filter. Too much risk of debris getting in, which could ruin a nice cylinder kit. Re: gear swap. I've never worked on the Piaggio gearbox, but most are somewhat similar so the specialty tools required may be a press (depending on the gear set since some come ready to drop in) and a blind hole bearing puller if you want to change out bearings while you're in there. Also a heat gun and some freeze spray can be helpful for bearings. Re : Pipe. It will hold the RPM down. I've got a TPR 86cc and the exhaust that I used at first kept it's peak power at 10-11k. Now I've got a different exhaust and peak is 13-14k. The pipe can totally transform the setup.
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Post by 808ministroke on Sept 3, 2020 0:53:41 GMT -5
OK so I went for a ride the other day filled it up at a gas station and was unable to started afterwards and I miss with the wiring a Tadd and got a distarb once more but it soon Died out so I Not a friend pick it up in his Truck to and after completely redoing the Ignition wiring I was still unable to get it to start a today and I started looking at the car in reeds and I realized that the stage 6 read cage part of rubber separating From its metal. So I ordered some cheap Replacements and decided what the hell in sanded down the little lip on either side to make the reeds set flush I put everything together and lo and behold the thing started. I was so happy that I decided to take my 1st video of it as my joy soon turned to sorrow planning front of my eyes It died right on Cam. I spent the rest of the day messing around and eventually found out that the view would only come down-the-line when it was on hooked to the carb. I tried another card in the same thing I realized that both of these must have a 5 float seals After getting the float seal online genuine kehin pe24 round slide But when I would draw I hope I get it figured out it would leak fuel into it it would leak from sumwerr on the bottom not the drain. I was able to get it started with this setup however it was shot I and after killing the engine to adjust some settings I was unable to get it started again...
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Post by 808ministroke on Sept 4, 2020 0:37:14 GMT -5
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Post by 808ministroke on Sept 10, 2020 2:17:15 GMT -5
well I had gotten spark briefly yesterday so was able to actually start it again for first time in two weeks it didn't last long..... I tried redoing the wires even cut. Them below the plug , on the diagram above it looks like the cdi has its own ground and I have seen piaggio cdi that usually come with a separate ground , is this my missing link? How was I getting such a good spark earlier ? Wtf im bummed I was gunna put down the cash for a proper pipe like c16 but now I think im gunna buy a gun and shoot myself
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Post by 190mech on Sept 10, 2020 3:59:29 GMT -5
It could be a grounding problem,do you have a ground wire from the engine to the frame?Grounding the white stator wire and the Mina black wire to the cases as well as the frame should do it..
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Post by 808ministroke on Sept 15, 2020 1:34:44 GMT -5
I'm seeing all these 12v. Ignition systems For Vespa 16 and 19mm cranks , These ones seem like they're much more advanced than your standard is U ones is there any way that these would fit since they are both Piaggio the case of mine a pig. Long case (could be wrong) is the same as the et-50 two stroke vespa. Anyone let me know "I KNO# NOTHI`NG!" Basically are the stator side crank dimensions and stator placed similar.
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Post by 190mech on Sept 15, 2020 3:56:40 GMT -5
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Post by Lucass2T on Sept 15, 2020 4:32:01 GMT -5
I'm seeing all these 12v. Ignition systems For Vespa 16 and 19mm cranks , These ones seem like they're much more advanced than your standard is U ones is there any way that these would fit since they are both Piaggio the case of mine a pig. Long case (could be wrong) is the same as the et-50 two stroke vespa. Anyone let me know "I KNO# NOTHI`NG!" Basically are the stator side crank dimensions and stator placed similar. Vespa, Gilera, Piaggio, Puch is all the same. Gilera DNA (long case), modern Vespa 2t's, Gilera runner (mid case), Piaggio NRG (mid), Piaggio NTT (mid AC), Piaggio Typhoon (mid AC), Piaggio Zip (short case LC) and Puch Zip (short case AC), and Aprilia SR street (mid) all have Paiggio motors and all share the same cranks and therefore crank tapers. All engine parts are interchangable too.
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Post by 808ministroke on Sept 15, 2020 5:57:57 GMT -5
I'm seeing all these 12v. Ignition systems For Vespa 16 and 19mm cranks , These ones seem like they're much more advanced than your standard is U ones is there any way that these would fit since they are both Piaggio the case of mine a pig. Long case (could be wrong) is the same as the et-50 two stroke vespa. Anyone let me know "I KNO# NOTHI`NG!" Basically are the stator side crank dimensions and stator placed similar. Vespa, Gilera, Piaggio, Puch is all the same. Gilera DNA (long case), modern Vespa 2t's, Gilera runner (mid case), Piaggio NRG (mid), Piaggio NTT (mid AC), Piaggio Typhoon (mid AC), Piaggio Zip (short case LC) and Puch Zip (short case AC), and Aprilia SR street (mid) all have Paiggio motors and all share the same cranks and therefore crank tapers. All engine parts are interchangable too. So my case was originally off a derbi atalantis like 2008ish. The stator and iggy were supposed to be off a girela runner, does anyone know if they have a 27mm flywheel puller or if they need a special 26? So basically my iggy can be interchanged with vespa lxp and even piaggio big block?
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Post by Lucass2T on Sept 15, 2020 6:08:43 GMT -5
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