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Post by 190mech on Jul 6, 2021 17:42:27 GMT -5
STA-RANGE!Good ground wire between the engine block and frame??
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 6, 2021 18:25:34 GMT -5
So I was out riding tonight. It will shut off very reliably until the rpms at idle creep up from 3k-4,500. Then the key/kill switch does nothing. Blip the throttle when the key is off and it’ll die right away. I think it must be too high a compression and self igniting at TDC. I spend an hour tonight tinkering with throttle settings and needle positions. Got the 6-7k low throttle position to act smoother which is nice at 25mph in the ‘hood. It was very uneven.
Tomorrow or the next day I’ll pull the shroud, pull the jug, add a .5mm shim gasket, goop it and reassemble. It’s a WIP (work in progress)
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Post by Zino on Jul 6, 2021 18:36:48 GMT -5
plug has no aluminum bits and looks brown .
So no detonation and fuel mixture looks good .
.5mm should drop your compression a big notch so it should be easy enough to see if that's the fix
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 6, 2021 18:39:15 GMT -5
Should I go .25mm instead?
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Post by Zino on Jul 6, 2021 18:46:34 GMT -5
Which ever one gets you closer to 1mm .
So you still keep that snappy take off
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 7, 2021 21:09:27 GMT -5
When the 3/8 craftsman torque wrench that you’ve been using for 30 years decides tonight is the night it’s going to screw you over by ignoring the setting that you have it on it just ends the day poorly. I knew that it did not feel right even though I was sure that the setting was correct. It did not click the way it was supposed to. Instead it made a loud bang and the nut got looser. Yanked the threads right out of the hole. Tomorrow we’ll see how well the epoxy held up.
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 9, 2021 21:23:28 GMT -5
Ok, stripped hole has been rethreaded. Insert is holding fine. Engine reassembled using .5mm of shims between the block and cylinder. Test ride is ok, idle ok, rides ok.
Stumble slightly at full chat WOT, rpms close to 10k. Not sure what’s going on.
Extra shimming did not change the “no shut-off” condition. The idle will randomly raise up 1500 from its standard 3,000 and when that happens neither key nor kill switch affect it. Blipping the throttle with the key turned off does stop the engine.
I’m wondering if the mild stutter at full rpm and wonky stop (or lack there of) are related? I have an identical chassis I’ve been slowly robbing parts off of. I’m gonna steal coil and other ignition components off of it and try some swap-er-oos.
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 10, 2021 13:44:55 GMT -5
 Well that’s a pisser |
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Post by 190mech on Jul 10, 2021 15:15:06 GMT -5
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 10, 2021 15:18:05 GMT -5
  I’m slowly using my spare bike |
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 10, 2021 15:27:22 GMT -5
Attempting to get this Malossi variator to function. Starter gear gone, stock spacer gone, alignment seems good. Weights that came with it are too light. 3.8g I’m gonna have to do the foil trick to find perfect then order some I think. Clutch grabs way to early now. I tried to change springs and that helped. I think the belt is climbing the variator prior to takeoff and I’m losing my mechanical advantage of first gear. It’s something to play with. |
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 10, 2021 15:32:48 GMT -5
  These washers available locally at my hardware store are 16.1mm inside diameter. With the starter clutch gone the Malossi variator was too thick with the stock spacer behind the variator assembly. I installed three of the large USS washers instead and that made a nice flat back area. I’m learning lessons from Brent’s variator cracking. They need support. I then added the thin machine bushing at the outer end so cover the 1/2mm of spline so the stack would get tight on the shaft. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Jul 10, 2021 18:55:33 GMT -5
Never seen a star washer break before. That's putting out some torque!
What Malossi variator do you have Rob. Don't normally have to junk the starter, or is it a Keeway peculiarity?
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 11, 2021 0:17:52 GMT -5
No idea what variator model it is. It came from Brent. All I know is that when I slid it onto the shaft prior to taking start clutch off alignment was terrible and no threads left for the nut. After removing the starter gears it was still put to far. The stock spacer was too long. I’ll have to take some pictures tomorrow. I was frustrated today. I had the thing apart at least ten times completely.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 11, 2021 7:32:16 GMT -5
I know I sent a Malossi OR, but I don't know if that one was the 2005 or 2013 model. If you really wanted to know, there should be numbers cast inside the vari that you could look up to figure it out.
I've seen those star washers broken multiple times. I'm sure I've done it myself, but for whatever reason the 2 times that I recall with much clarity were a friend and a customer. Both tried to do CVT work for the first time and didn't get the spacing right and ended up with broken keys/star washers and one buggered the splines on the crank a bit. My guess would be that something was off with the spacing, even slightly. If any splines come through the last splined part, which is usually the kick starter pawl, then there will be slack when the nut is tightened. Even a tiny amount of slack can cause damage to parts. Also, if the nut backs off or anything "settles" to cause slack, you'll be breaking stuff or stripping things.
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