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Post by 190mech on May 11, 2021 19:26:39 GMT -5
Dig into that carb,or replace it and it'll likely fire right up...
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Post by thxcuz on May 11, 2021 20:08:18 GMT -5
Dig into that carb,or replace it and it'll likely fire right up... Any suggestions? Would an sha clone do the trick? I think I have 3 of them somewhere
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Post by geoffh on May 15, 2021 14:46:37 GMT -5
When you get round it :)there is a cracking after market seat cover available 278218 seems to be the key number it,s made by "tailored" there's a few listed in the U.K.flea bay site from £11 to £20,pays your money and throw the dice.I got mine from brooks barn pembs.
Geoff
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Post by thxcuz on May 15, 2021 20:10:26 GMT -5
Quick question while I got you here- my low oil light is on (I’m using premix in the tank) that wouldn’t prevent it from starting would it? I wouldn’t think a scooter from when I was in high school would be that high tech
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Post by aeroxbud on May 16, 2021 5:15:09 GMT -5
No it wouldn't stop it from starting. It's just a low level warning light. I just took all the oil stuff off. But you could just remove one wire from the sender. It would remove the annoying light.
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Post by geoffh on May 16, 2021 7:58:38 GMT -5
Ditto what aeroxbud said,but these things need to be completely built up to run it,s a PIA sometimes but mine won,t go without "feeling" whole.it,s not high tech but it,s not steam engine tech 30 years of being around will show in some unexpected fashion.
Geoff
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Post by thxcuz on May 22, 2021 7:37:21 GMT -5
Well gang, not much progress in getting the old gal to start. As matter of fact - what’s the opposite of progress? Regress? I’ve made a lot of regress on this scooter. It gets spark & carb is clean. I’m thinking somehow fuel isn’t flowing from the carb to the engine or I have poor compression. I haven’t done any tests, thumb or otherwise. Or it could be bad seals. I’ve dealt with that on a QT 50 a few years ago. 33 year old rings and seals are bound to fail I recon.
I’m on vacation next week so I’m planning to drop the engine and give it a real good looking over. Testing the compression, inspecting the reeds, checking the exhaust for blockage- the whole Megillah. I’m determined the get this pig running. Fortunately I have a really good Yamaha dealer not too far from my house. They’re never not had a part I need in stock or at least have been able to find a substitute.
I always leave there with a smile and a lighter wallet.
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Post by geoffh on May 22, 2021 9:57:39 GMT -5
Strange,different dealerships different worlds maybe,I won,t go to my local dealer they think 50cc = trailer trash,good plan for the checks make sure your crankcase is clear of gunk,get your best mate to syphon it out using a drinking straw Geoff
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Post by thxcuz on May 24, 2021 12:07:43 GMT -5
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Post by aeroxbud on May 24, 2021 12:29:18 GMT -5
That doesn't look bad.👍
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Post by thxcuz on May 24, 2021 13:33:09 GMT -5
Who’s got 2 thumbs and broke the piston? This guy Well, I may as well kit it since I’m buying a new piston. Affordable suggestions?
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Post by geoffh on May 24, 2021 14:44:35 GMT -5
I see the logic but I would buy a piston for the 50cc barrel,putting a BBK on it now might just push you into a dark room of confusion,the pistons are cheap enough and the Same as the modern horizontal engine.Other wise your engine looks good to go once it,s cleaned and rebuilt.
Geoff
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Post by thxcuz on May 24, 2021 14:57:29 GMT -5
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Post by geoffh on May 24, 2021 15:08:33 GMT -5
Not for me I,d get one from my scooter parts specialist,Parts for Scooters are members on here quality parts and service to the USA I am led to belive,but I have a dislike of amazon.
Geoff
fugazliv is Matt's user name on here sure if you p.m. him he will sort you out Matt =parts for scooters
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Post by thxcuz on May 26, 2021 7:20:22 GMT -5
I’m sure this has been covered before but I’m having trouble wrapping my head around how the auto lube works. The manual I have assumes that I have the intelligence above a 4th grader and they couldn’t be more wrong
First off, is it only gear driven or is it cable driven? I recall the qt50 I had was cable driven.
Second, I was attempting to pull it to inspect it and it would not come out. Do I need to split the case to get to it?
I’m sure it’s just as easy to block it off and run pre mix but now I’m curious and as I said, the manual isn’t too terribly helpful
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