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Post by Zino on Jul 11, 2021 21:31:27 GMT -5
Here is the Stage 6 street bolted up the best that I could It has a 2 piece head pipe so I had a little more leeway adjusting it I have it shimmed out with 2 shims so it is not riding on the fan which gave plenty of clearance from the tire . Here is the one more thing I have to allow for the fender bolt to the exhaust bracket
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Post by Zino on Jul 11, 2021 21:39:36 GMT -5
The stock exhaust certainly has a large enough chamber for expansion if it was not filled with a catalytic converter. A friend is going to work me up a bracket so that it fits and so it attaches the fender . I did have to fire it up it rumbles a little deeper than the stock exhaust and the malossi exhaust and revvs up with more power than stock. I only ran down the driveway and in front of my house since it is not fully bolted up . It was Dark so I did not get any tach readings but my trans is close to right for the pipe by how snappy it feels ..
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Post by aeroxbud on Jul 12, 2021 5:22:07 GMT -5
Sounds promising so far.
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Post by 190mech on Jul 12, 2021 5:34:50 GMT -5
The nicely tapered headpipe and diffuser should give the S6 a decent power boost compared the straight headpipe exhausts..
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Post by hippo008 on Jul 13, 2021 14:25:01 GMT -5
Excuse my sniffles in the video. I have seasonal allergies and work outdoors. Do you still want me to finish the Yasuni bracket in CAD?
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Post by Zino on Jul 13, 2021 16:52:59 GMT -5
Hippo I am running the ncy front pulley which is 89 mm so I max out the front with the stock belt. I am running the ncy rear pulley same as you.
That is the 757x17.3x28 Bando belt for the BWS 100 it did not give me extra travel up front you have the malossi face which is 97 mm so it looks like a perfect fit .
When you can get that CAD for the Yasuni it would be great. I plan on making kind of a master list of parts and pieces that work and ones that can be modded to work .
I have to have a bracket made for the stage 6 street exhaust and it will probably be a couple weeks until I can get the brackets made.
Where did you send your CAD to for your exhaust brackets and what was the cost ? Most people will probably want that info also since not everyone has access to a machine shop.
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Post by Zino on Jul 13, 2021 16:56:01 GMT -5
As far as Sport or Race Build . At least this first one will be a sport build for a while .
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Post by hippo008 on Jul 13, 2021 17:53:43 GMT -5
Hippo I am running the ncy front pulley which is 89 mm so I max out the front with the stock belt. I am running the ncy rear pulley same as you. That is the 757x17.3x28 Bando belt for the BWS 100 it did not give me extra travel up front you have the malossi face which is 97 mm so it looks like a perfect fit . When you can get that CAD for the Yasuni it would be great. I plan on making kind of a master list of parts and pieces that work and ones that can be modded to work . I have to have a bracket made for the stage 6 street exhaust and it will probably be a couple weeks until I can get the brackets made. Where did you send your CAD to for your exhaust brackets and what was the cost ? Most people will probably want that info also since not everyone has access to a machine shop. Are you running the stage6 sport pipe or the R? I'm considering running the new Yasuni C10 on the roughhouse and selling my lightly used R. I sent my CAD to SendCutSend, they use a CO2 laster and cut your parts. I paid like $30 for my bracket shipped. Here is a link to a Google Drive with the .DXF file in it. Plate DXF. Here is a link to a scale PDF of the plate PDF of Plate
I made these in QCAD pretty quickly and it should be accurate, however expect to do a little adjustment by hand for perfect fitment. I made mine out of 14 gauge aluminum and its plenty strong. I like the aluminum because its slightly flexible and easy to work with. Plus it doesnt rust!
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Post by Zino on Jul 13, 2021 21:27:51 GMT -5
Thanks for the CAD Hippo 30 bucks is cheap to have them just make it .
14 gauge aluminum would be easier to work with . I was just going to use scrap steel
I am leaning initially to running the street pipe .
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Post by Zino on Jul 20, 2021 20:25:53 GMT -5
Installed the Scooter Works Exhaust . It has a rev range very similar to stock 7800-8000 peak rpms I started with 82 , 85 , 90 ,95 main jets I also have 35 ,38,40 pilots The pilots richen the whole range so from idle to wide open . So I can use it to richen the mid throttle instead of shimming the needle for testing .
Stock setting was 82 main 35 pilot went up 10% on the main on first run for safety 90 and to the 38 pilot . Throttle response feels good till I get Past 1/2 -3/4 throttle feel a little rich Max temp was 285 So the 90 is too big 38 is close too right
Next tried 85 main and 38 pilot Max temp was 330 above 1/2 throttle hung around 300 below 1/2 260 Throttle response was good all the way up . Idle hung a little bit after a extended wide open run .
Next ran 85 main 40 pilot to clean up the hanging idle .Temps level off similar on top and a couple degrees less at part throttle . This is a little rich on the bottom throttle response is not as good as the 38 in the mid range but hanging idle is gone . Classic signs of a rich bottom end it is more sluggish when it warms up I ran the 85 mains for a couple tanks of gas .
So I am narrowing down to trying a 88 Main with the 38 pilot next and then shimming needle .
I ran wide open for miles at a time with each jet setting Color on the new plug shows a healthy jetting range on the 7 plug and timing is right .
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Post by Zino on Jul 20, 2021 20:33:17 GMT -5
As I was backing my Scooter out I could here a mettalic rubbing kinda like a brake was stuck . I tried to spin the wheel on the center stand it would not spin freely. checked the rear brake it was not sticking .
Pulled the transmission cover . spun the clutch bell and I could hear the rubbing . Pulled off the bell and clutch the polini springs were hanging up and caused the bell to catch the clutch.
Swapped to the NCY springs problem solved .
the right springs are cheap enough to buy.
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Post by captincvmn on Jul 20, 2021 20:43:57 GMT -5
Never a dull moment. Sounds like the jetting is settled in.
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Post by Zino on Jul 21, 2021 16:32:30 GMT -5
The jetting is close for this pipe . I could live with 85/40 for a summer jet it is just a notch rich on the pilot. If I took the plug off mixture screw and slotted it I could probably tone down the 40 pilot . The 85 would work for a summer jet It might be ok for a winter jet .
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Post by Zino on Jul 24, 2021 22:05:29 GMT -5
Went up to 88 main 38 pilot The 88 sounded and felt a touch rich at wide open The temps leveled off at 290 degrees on my acid test 3 mile wide open run . The needle hanging is gone the 88 must just richen up the mid range enough .
Swapped in 85 main 38 pilot and raised the needle with a .5 mm thick shim. Ran a full tank a gas at this setting sounds and feels just right at wide open and mid range pilot may be just a notch rich Hanging idle is gone after wide open runs . Temps leveled off at 320 degrees at wide open throttle on the acid test and hung out at 270 degrees at part throttle cruising 25-30 mph .
This testing was done on the scooterworks aftermarket street pipe . I am going to run this for a few more tanks of gas and start swapping to the other pipes .
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Post by Zino on Jul 31, 2021 22:17:53 GMT -5
Air leaks suck I kept catching a hanging needle . Found a small air leak at the air box connections. After cleaning that up I found I was over jetting to compensate.
The scooter works sport exhaust is so close to stock .
Swapped back to stock settings 82 main 35 pilot no shim on the needle . Temps peaked at 320 degrees put 20 miles on this setting . 35 Pilot jet feels good no hanging idle . Transition to the needle is better . Stock needle setting Mid range 1/4 to 3/4 throttle no longer sounds too rich Still has a slighlty rich tone . Throttle response is best so far from take off to wide open At 1/2 throttle Temps hang out at 260-270 82 main Still has that Hornet Buzz at wide open .Temps Peak at 320 Speed and acceleration is better rpms are hitting 7500-7600 . Top speed is over 43mph
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