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Post by fly on Jan 29, 2022 22:50:24 GMT -5
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Post by fly on Jan 29, 2022 23:04:26 GMT -5
Actually, I just ordered these. 😅 I order Malossi parts through a US store, though sometimes they need to order parts other this in.
I think 9.92:1 is gonna be a decent ratio.
I'm not sure what Malossi specs in the RC-One system. Curious to know.
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Post by chadbullet on Jan 30, 2022 8:14:36 GMT -5
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Post by fly on Feb 3, 2022 7:30:12 GMT -5
I'm waiting on a couple things, but should be able to get after these cases shortly.
Reed valve was lost by FedEx. Seller said they would send replacement, then just stopped communicating (powersports911 on Amazon) for several days. So yesterday Amazon refunded me and I ordered again from a different seller. Amazon is basically an eBay/AliExpress mashup with a delivery service now, kinda sucks. At least there's a level of buyer protection. Should be here Monday. Should.
A gracious, gracious, fantastic, wonderful forum member has sent out his case cutter that should be here in the next couple days. Again, don't want to name names unless they don't mind, just in case they prefer anonymity in such manners.
I purchased a 49ccscoot hoodie and sticker, and I think y'all should, too. 😄
Once the cases are shaped I'll paint them and install components. I think the JB Weld mating surfaces bolstering is going to work out well. I lapped them briefly with a large Atoma diamond stone I use mainly for flattening my waterstones. They show zero light at all just resting the right case on the left. I use Threebond 1211. High hopes.
I have a lot of checking spec on the frame and forks. Part of the motivation for this build was after my friend crashed it there was more damage than initially thought. Needed a complete rebuild, so this was the time. I'm surprised it turned over and ran home. The headlight carrier is bent. Not paying for a new one. Will bend it back straight or make something lighter.
The left side crankshaft bearing cage cracked, and I lucked out the pieces seem to have shot out or been trapped on the seal side. The S6 cylinder that was on there is pristine. The final drive gears were apparently unseated. I think the rear wheel hit so hard it knocked them out of time. I had just changed the gear oil, but when I drained it it was full of metal dust just from driving it a block home after the crash. If the gears locked while the clutch was engaged (clutch was also f'd, have a new one), the tension must have been so high it stressed that crank bearing enough to crack the cage. I haven't tested that crank yet, I'm sure it needs balanced before use in another scoot (Malossi RHQ).
Forks were defo bottomed out, there's a wheel rub mark on the plastic behind it. Which, well, I didn't think those forks even had that much travel, so they need to be rebuilt. Will be scary to pull them apart, S6 has no specs on any of the parts used. A good chance to find a stiffer spring, though. I need to take a carful look at the head tube and rest of frame, really. Good thing I have a spare Zuma. Yikes.
Lots to do!
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Post by fly on Feb 3, 2022 8:02:02 GMT -5
Gearing. I've got those 14/42s with the extended shaft coming which I want to use. I think it's interesting Malossi doesn't spec taller gears in the Yammy RC-One at 10.618:1. With 08 secondaries I'll be at 9.922:1, which might actually make it more controllable at the low end.
If I want to get back up to 11:1, instead of switching out the 14/42s I'll see about switching to 02-05 secondaries. That way I can keep that extended input shaft.
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Post by fly on Feb 6, 2022 11:52:53 GMT -5
  Doing this post on my phone, hope I selected the right photos 😅 Anywho, got the case cutter in the mail yesterday. Cut the bore just tits on the dot wide, wicked. The bore cutter bit chipped at the point and dull and I was hesitant to shape it because it's not mine, but I did and then it cut sooooo fast. My only mistake was sinking the bore a bit under 1mm deeper than I meant to, it cut so freaking quick with a sharp bit. Note: in the top pic that's the base gasket on there lining up perfectly with the cut I had just made. Did the crank areas as well, but didn't get a pic yet. They're bolted up, I wanted to see how close I got them. Maybe 0.2mm off at most in a couple places, they match magnifico. I'll add pics later. The case cutter holes didn't line up perfectly, my holes were about a millimeter wider apart. Again, not being mine, I didn't want to drill a new set of holes in the base plate. This is a non-consumable, though, so I didn't. I got the hole that centered perfectly very snug, and cross threaded a bolt in the other side a bit to cam it in place, worked fine. On the left side case it was a non-issue, those holes aren't threaded and have enough wiggle room. I need one of these! Will be taking some notes 😉 More pics later. |
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Post by fly on Feb 6, 2022 20:48:54 GMT -5
Studs included in cylinder kit are 8mm. I'm kinda loathe to tap bigger holes, I think the stud holes are an area that get punch throughs often. 🤔
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Post by chadbullet on Feb 7, 2022 10:54:02 GMT -5
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Post by fly on Feb 7, 2022 17:31:04 GMT -5
Oh dang, that's rad! Thanks! |
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Post by fly on Feb 7, 2022 23:40:25 GMT -5
I picked up a 3"x3.5"x3.5" block of 7075 aluminum today. I was hoping they'd have something that size in 6061. All the aluminum remnants are priced the same by pound, so 7075 it was. $12.16, you try to buy that online and pay like 3x that just for 6061. For 7075 probably double on top of that. Remnants and drops are where it's at.
It's to make a billet intake. Only thing is I've never worked with 7075. I'm a little bit nervous about how much harder it will be to work with vs 6061. Will see, I guess.
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Post by fly on Feb 8, 2022 18:26:25 GMT -5
  Kx85 vs horizontal Minarelli vforce3 reed valves. I stepped on my stuffer for the normal ones. 🤦 I ran it afterwards for awhile with no problems. So. Look at the inlet... The smaller one without stuffer is 30mm x 30mm. The Kx85 one is an oval 30mmx28mm. The reeds are wayyy bigger, though I don't plan on running the smaller valve. I want stouter reeds to stand up to 94cc. Should I open up the inlet on the Kx85 valve? Technically that's still more inlet area than the 28mm carb. But I am still thinking more volume will allow for easier breathing. I may want to open it up to the equivalent of a 33mm carb, since I may go up anyway on carb size. Plenty of meat on the stuffer. What do you think? |
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Post by 190mech on Feb 8, 2022 18:45:40 GMT -5
A lot of design effort goes into a reed stuffer to balance flow,lots of folks bin them thinking it is a restriction, I'd keep it and carefully open it to 33 if you install the big carb..  |
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Post by fly on Feb 9, 2022 16:50:38 GMT -5
That's true for sure. They use the same valve for the Kx85 and 100. I'm not sure if they rev as high. But either way, you're right. Shouldn't touch it until I can assess.
Plus will typically help with the low end. I know trials bikes use relatively small carbs for their displacement. So with taller gears it might be a wash in terms of getting them going. Max hp isn't as much the goal as much as max performance for the purpose, and sometimes the two aren't the same.
Thanks for the input, helps. Love bouncing around ideas.
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 10, 2022 6:50:04 GMT -5
Just make sure there are no steps where surfaces meet, otherwise eddies can occur.
When going from a big diameter to smaller, a small step is not a problem. The other way around will cause eddies. You'll get low pressure area's right behind the step since volume is increasing.
Changes in volume must be kept as smooth as possible. Ideally you don't want any volume changes whatsoever but thats impossible in a 2t engine.
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Post by fly on Feb 10, 2022 16:48:53 GMT -5
Just make sure there are no steps where surfaces meet, otherwise eddies can occur. When going from a big diameter to smaller, a small step is not a problem. The other way around will cause eddies. You'll get low pressure area's right behind the step since volume is increasing. Changes in volume must be kept as smooth as possible. Ideally you don't want any volume changes whatsoever but thats impossible in a 2t engine. This is a golden tip, I did not know this! Thank you. And thankfully I skimmed back the area where there was a cut, before I sent the cutter kit back. Phew, in retrospect! There was a bit of rubbing which is why I did it, but now I doubly glad. The cases now meet so well I can't tell where the seam is even dragging my nail over it. Incidentally, I was telling 190mech I've been thinking of micro dimpling the interior of the cases around the crank circumference. The idea being to increase turbulence and subsequently flow. But a couple of things before that. First, I want to measure the crankcase volume to make sure it matches the cylinder volume well. I don't know what kind of compromises Malossi might have made in making a kit to fit (ish) stock cases. Secondly, in reading I've found that in interior applications as in a tube, dimpling has in inverse effect and actually reduces flow. So I could wind up with crank webs that spin with less friction, but decrease flow. No bueno. So I am going to hold off on anything like that, unless I can consult with an engineer of the appropriate type. The university engineering program has a baja team, I might see if they'd return an email. lol. I've also been turned onto a treasure trove of 2t tuning info. Which I'll have time to read. Because I've encountered something that needs substantial addressing. That's the next post. |
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