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Post by fly on Feb 10, 2022 17:05:07 GMT -5
So, a picture speaks a thousand words. Here's three:    I'm thinking of milling down the case 1mm, and then making a permanent baseplate for it. The dip behind the boost is up to 0.5mm deep. The stator side is just not there enough. and the deep groove speaks for itself, actually clipping the boost a touch, with zero mating surface behind it. The deep molded in groove I was initially thinking of drilling, tapping, and filling it with some threaded aluminum I'd make, and then mill it flush. And I was thinking I'd make a plate to match the profile on the stator side. And simply filling the dip behind the boost with JB Weld. But I think milling the whole thing down 1mm (and widening the flat a couple mm) and installing a 1mm base plate is probably a much more sound option. Maybe 1mm over the existing area. And then 2-3 over the stator side nothingness to match that curvy profile. Fun problem solving, though. Any feedback or alternative ideas? ETA: I should point out on the right side of the second pic, behind that transfer has no mating surface, either. |
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Post by fly on Feb 10, 2022 17:22:11 GMT -5
Maybe it's easier just to do the whole thing 2mm, that way I don't have to match the stator side profile. 2mm of 7075.
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Post by fly on Feb 10, 2022 17:47:37 GMT -5
I'm doing the base plate out of titanium, I've just bought a 2mmx100mmx100mm sheet off Amazon. Unless I decide not to do a base plate š
. Only 11.70 shipped, nbd. Cut in half with an angle grinder, then shapes well on a belt sander.
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 11, 2022 14:32:49 GMT -5
...I'm thinking of milling down the case 1mm, and then making a permanent baseplate for it... ...milling the whole thing down 1mm (and widening the flat a couple mm) and installing a 1mm base plate is probably a much more sound option... This dude did the same with his Puch E50 cases (compare pics OEM cases and his mods) to support a Kawasaki KX80 dirtbike barrel. Thats what you basically want to do. Malossi also did with their RC cases. Also take a look at the Stage 6 RT70 cylinder/base plate kit. You could do something similar. |
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Post by fly on Feb 11, 2022 14:55:33 GMT -5
...I'm thinking of milling down the case 1mm, and then making a permanent baseplate for it... ...milling the whole thing down 1mm (and widening the flat a couple mm) and installing a 1mm base plate is probably a much more sound option... This dude did the same with his Puch E50 cases (compare pics OEM cases and his mods) to support a Kawasaki KX80 dirtbike barrel. Thats what you basically want to do. Malossi also did with their RC cases. Also take a look at the Stage 6 RT70 cylinder/base plate kit. You could do something similar.Ā Okay that's rad, feeling confident. Thank you! I've seen the S6 base plate and was initially thinking along those lines. But I think having it split with the cases will allow me to bond and seal the new deck quite a bit more aggressively. I'm just working out how I want to tackle milling this down. I could easily fab a router table that mounts up the the cases. But I need to play with some scrap first to check surface finish. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 11, 2022 15:38:36 GMT -5
I'd mill about 10mm (or 0.393700787inches or 0.032808399feet or whatever you feel comfortable with  ) from the base and weld back a solid 10mm plate of aluminum or aluminium. Make sure you know the type of alloy the cases are made of. Otherwise your cases will end up looking like the remains of yesterdays bbq. |
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Post by fly on Feb 11, 2022 19:19:52 GMT -5
Maybe not. Let me switch units for tooling purposes. Everything on the cases is metric, but tools here not so much.
I could cut a 3.5" circle out of some 3/8" x 4" 6061 bar I already have. Bore 3.5" down 3/8", and weld that in. Assuming the cases are 6005 or something else weldable, but I have no way of knowing what they're cast from. And I don't have the means to bore that deep with confidence in accuracy. I would have to take it someplace. I'm trying to avoid that.
The Ti baseplate I don't think is anemic at 2mm. Should be about twice as stiff as 6061 of the same thickness, and about a 30% greater yield strength. There's not a lot of extra force involved, just a few mm more around the edges. I'm pretty confident it should work.
But I'm going to keep thinking about it for awhile before I do anything.
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Post by fly on Feb 11, 2022 19:27:20 GMT -5
I will say, this is not something I had been anticipating. LC cases I'm guessing wouldn't have the problem on the stator side, and the left side issues on their own would have been much more easily dealt with.
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Post by 190mech on Feb 11, 2022 19:53:18 GMT -5
Jan Thiel,worlds greatest 2stroke guru,dyno tested case to transfer duct mismatch and found no loss in HP..He's DE-MAN in my studies so a slight step is not worth the pain of "inventing a new wheel"..Attempting to weld China or Japan cases is very risky as alloy types are unknown,,Decking the case cylinder flange more than 3mm is sketchy also because they were designed to be a 50cc/2 HP engine and are quite thin in high stress areas..  |
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Post by fly on Feb 11, 2022 21:13:31 GMT -5
Jan Thiel,worlds greatest 2stroke guru,dyno tested case to transfer duct mismatch and found no loss in HP..He's DE-MAN in my studies so a slight step is not worth the pain of "inventing a new wheel"..Attempting to weld China or Japan cases is very risky as alloy types are unknown,,Decking the case cylinder flange more than 3mm is sketchy also because they were designed to be a 50cc/2 HP engine and are quite thin in high stress areas.. That makes perfect sense. Thanks! I'm doing my best to mitigate the weak spots. And having fun at it! |
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Post by fly on Feb 15, 2022 0:46:40 GMT -5
I'm gonna brush the stinger tube raw, I think. When I got a C16 I got a plain aluminum for aesthetic preference. It looked rad on the bike. Mine's always been more Detroit muscle than Italian design house look, aesthetically. Maybe I'll swap the tube someday for a normal cylinder.
For the deck I'm gonna make a jig and use my router with an aluminum cutting bit on a sled. Light passes, feed slow and gentle, light cutting oil. WD-40. Keep the cutters clean. It's not much material, it'll be fine.
Problem is my router is single speed, so I ordered an $8 potentiometer suited to the task. Which I hope will lower RPM to proper working speed, while beeing careful about the motor. If If need to I guess I can solder in bigger resistors. It's a 17yo no frills Porter Cable single speed workhorse.
I just haven't decided on what kind of bit yet. I'm not sure if I'll use a single o-cut, or a wider surfacing bit.
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Post by captincvmn on Feb 15, 2022 6:37:49 GMT -5
Following from page three to keep up.
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Post by fly on Feb 16, 2022 16:58:33 GMT -5
 Going to use this bit. Wiring potentiometer now. |
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Post by fly on Feb 16, 2022 21:06:06 GMT -5
Well, it ain't pretty but it works with stuff I had on hand. š No way of knowing RPM it's running at, or what it will run like at whatever current under load. But it does work.  |
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Post by fly on Feb 19, 2022 22:31:28 GMT -5
Router bit is in, got angle cut to make the jig that bolts to frame. Starting markup, will drill uprights tonight.
I have 4 M7 bolts I will insert to same level from deck to help get things square.
Not sure if I will make a sled or just drill a hole in the center of a 1/4" 12x12 piece of 1018 I've had for years and bolt router to that. Would be quicker than making a sled with angle and bar, though. And I don't want to lose momentum. Anxious to get to the final drive.
I ordered another main axle set from partzilla, not sure when it will arrive. But wanted to use fresh gears and keep my 50 gear pressed on the one I have. Swap back if want easier, or the scoot that gets the AC cast-offs already gtg.
Pics tonight or tomorrow. Saying that for accountability. Lol.
What I mean by bolts to help initial alignment with jig:
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) from the base and weld back a solid 10mm plate of aluminum or aluminium. Make sure you know the type of alloy the cases are made of. Otherwise your cases will end up looking like the remains of yesterdays bbq.
