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Post by kevin55950 on Oct 17, 2013 13:11:57 GMT -5
I used hockey tape to keep wires together. It makes a very clean job and it doesn't wear or become hard as vinyl tape does. I didn't used it to insulate, just to put wires together so it doesn't look like a big mess. It doesn't peel as fast as electrical tape does: in fact, I forgot to put the wire from the switch to the cdi (ground). It took me 5 minutes to wrap all the wires together, but half an hour to take out the tape. You can compare the finish of the hockey tape: Compared to the electrical tape: And that's the complete wiring. I'll make a diagram if someone need it someday. It's only a simple wiring without starter and lights/blinkers circuits, but it's made to be used with a battery so the regulator is needed. I also added an accessory output just in case, but I don't think I'll use it soon.
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Post by kevin55950 on Oct 17, 2013 17:05:42 GMT -5
Here's the wiring diagram. JOG style cdi (ground killed) is for oem jog style ignition/cdi and for all MVT Digital Direct but not for DD-10 DD-19 and DD-21 Zuma style CDI ( positive current killed ) is for oem zuma style ignition/CDI and for MVT DD10-DD19-DD21 Brown wire on MVT ignition , B/W wire on oem one. Goes to regulator red wire (need to add a switch if you don't use oem key) or brown key wire. I have DD06 model for my Jog. The diagram have NO wiring for your ignition/cdi, which is pretty bolt-on when you have the matching CDI and ignition. But you'll generally have to make a wire to the coil from CDI (orange wire) and a ground wires (green/yellow from stator and black from CDI on MVT) to your main ground system. I haven't added it because some ignition came with their own cdi-to-coil wiring. Some like Italkit come with CDI/Coil combo in one piece with only a wire to plug your kill switch. If you have no current output from your performance ignition, you don't need the regulator for battery charging. You'll only have 2 separate circuit: one for your ignition and kill switch, and one from battery directly to your accessories with no regulator. Some ignition systems require to run with a battery, so you might have to connect a wire from your battery (or any current source when the key is on) to your ignition. It will be mentioned in the notice.
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Post by kevin55950 on Oct 20, 2013 18:57:10 GMT -5
Bearing got changed in the transmission. Only thing missing is the micrometer for the ignition... At least I'll be able to start it on a standard Jog ignition (zuma would not work on this circuit) if I don't find the micrometer soon enough.
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Post by kevin55950 on Oct 23, 2013 19:32:11 GMT -5
I got this one for cheap and it will be useful to do settings : $50 instead of the price on the box... They are no longer produced since some years, and at the price they were asking for I understand why it was never sold lol. It has a battery inside, and it connects to the spark plug wire with some kind of pliers like on a battery charger so it's pretty fast to take a reading and take the tachometer out. I can even take the reading without the pliers just by approaching the tachometer to the spark plug wire (tested on my car) And it fits with the rest of the Jog
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Post by kevin55950 on Oct 27, 2013 23:06:23 GMT -5
LOTS of free time in perspective this week. I have to fab some seat brackets, and I like the way the Ruckus ones are made (lightweight, simple and not a lots of parts). What tubing size do you guys recommend ? I need to be able to curve them with pretty basic tools. I tried to make some using some flat bars I had at home but it will be a time bomb before it breaks, and I have a square tubing but it will be very ugly and I'll have to weld here and there on some flat bars to make the strange-shaped bracket.
I also have my ATV cylinders and heads to take to the machine shop but #1 in priority will be the Jog.
I changed a bearing in the gearbox but I found the other ones need attention too. Time to take the rod welder and bolts again...
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Post by kevin55950 on Oct 28, 2013 20:12:17 GMT -5
I passed the day trimming studs and bolts. stock minarelli studs are too long for this head when in the manual they say 110mm studs are the ones to use, and bolts to hold the red part of the head were not included. With my basic tools (buffer and cheap dies and taps) it's pretty long to do. I also need to calculate squish every time I'm trying a new stud/bolts length (base gasket are made of copper and compress easily). I tried and tried to find copper washers for the 5 allen bolts on top but I never found any. It's strange but in the instructions they say to use RTV at lots of places ?! I have to visit a shop tomorrow with school, but I'm optimist to start it tomorrow or Wednesday if everything goes well from now.
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 31, 2013 7:57:35 GMT -5
I use it allot. RTV. Seems most all Minas pass a little gas around the reedblock, base, and or head without it. The biggest trick seems to be letting it tack up well before instal, then letting it cure up completely.... If not it ends up sucked in, or blown out.
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Post by kevin55950 on Nov 1, 2013 12:39:46 GMT -5
Well, I can't use my STR8 kickstart with this engine. Cranked it yesterday and my ankle was painful after 3-4 shots, I used high squish and compression is very high. I cannot imagine how it would be to kick-start it with the low squish for racing fuel with this carbon-style kickstart.
And, I wasn't able to start yesterday. exhaust is claimed to make around 98dB at 5K rpm and at 11 pm neighbours would have killed me.
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Post by kevin55950 on Nov 1, 2013 16:20:49 GMT -5
Finally I know, sound is crap
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 1, 2013 17:41:20 GMT -5
Can't wait to hear how badass it is once it's all tuned.
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Post by kevin55950 on Nov 1, 2013 18:01:33 GMT -5
I was supposed to get it tuned on the dyno on sunday but the dyno guy prefer that I finish my frame work before tuning it. He was afraid that my engine mount broke in half on the dyno with the mvt ignition. and fuel tank is held by 2 zip ties also... After killing my cell phone mic and nearly killing my friend's one, I have another video coming in around 10 minutes. Not long, but with good sound.
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Post by kevin55950 on Nov 1, 2013 18:10:36 GMT -5
Dat sound
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Post by ryan on Nov 1, 2013 18:36:41 GMT -5
what clutch and cvt setup you using
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Post by kevin55950 on Nov 1, 2013 18:47:49 GMT -5
Malossi over range (not the red one) with TechPulley clutch i have to test, not installed here. I put a spacer on the boss so the vari doesn't open.
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Post by 2strokd on Nov 2, 2013 10:16:20 GMT -5
Good work man!!! Great to hear it running! From what i can hear it sounds good, real good!
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