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Post by nelson on Nov 25, 2013 20:58:18 GMT -5
Can someone give me an opinion on the crank I bought?
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Post by moofus02 on Nov 25, 2013 21:16:52 GMT -5
Full circle all metal looks good should be much better than stock for sure
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by nelson on Nov 25, 2013 22:46:36 GMT -5
I bought a no name bbk from usmcdoc that I am waiting on to show up. It is supposed to be a higb rpm/ race cylinder. I am wondering if I should maybe sell it and go with a sport ported cylinder. Im not worried about the hi revs I am just wanting to make the most usable hp . Thoughs?
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Post by moofus02 on Nov 26, 2013 3:20:35 GMT -5
That's the Beauty of the cvt tranny if set up rite once you get it set up and get moving the rpms should stay where you set it for. Doc says they are just like a hoca with better timing. I think he has a 130/70/12 rear tire with 11:1 gears and is running 56 mph at around 8500 rpm. I've dealt with doc and he's always been straight up with me so I believe his claim plus Ryan confirms it's a really strong running bike and I've road Ryans beast so if he says it's a good 70 bbk I'll take his Word for it. If I didn't have so many stroker cranks and 54mm Cylinder kits I'd get one for myself. Still considering it I just dont have enough bikes for the engines I have on hand. My wife really hates my scooter addiction she tolerates my parts collection but draws the line at more bikes lol. I think you'll be happy with the kit from doc once you get the cvt dialed in
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by kevin55950 on Nov 26, 2013 10:14:35 GMT -5
Cast iron are sport cylinder. Some like to rev more than others (like the Street Race), but they don't generally go over 10-11K RPM. Performances are also similar. High-end-racing cylinder are of the kind of Stage6 R/T, Polini Evolution, Malossi MHR, etc. and can rev up to 14K rpm. Sport cylinders can perform through a wider range than alloy racing ones. You will be fine with it.
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Post by usmcdoc on Nov 26, 2013 10:30:02 GMT -5
I bought a no name bbk from usmcdoc that I am waiting on to show up. It is supposed to be a higb rpm/ race cylinder. I am wondering if I should maybe sell it and go with a sport ported cylinder. Im not worried about the hi revs I am just wanting to make the most usable hp . Thoughs? You don't have it yet?? Whoa..did you check the tracking number? Should have been there long ago..
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Post by usmcdoc on Nov 26, 2013 10:39:27 GMT -5
Ok..shows it is out for delivery this a.m. Btw..worry not..the kit is not a super high revving one. It has great mid-upper end power...hence why it works so well with my Tecnigas Next R. 7k-10k is where the power band is with my pipe. With my setup it will zip up to 50mph at about 9.5k Then the sliders make their way to max position...rpms drop to 7.5-8k and it stays at 50 nicely.
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Post by nelson on Nov 26, 2013 10:49:00 GMT -5
cool man, i just tracked it also. should be to my desk in a bit! i guess i am just wondering is there another cylinder with different port timing that make more HP with my pipe? How much do you weigh Doc? i am only 145# so it makes scooters that much more fun!!! i bet my bike wont weigh much more than me when complete. Also, should i go with 19 or 21mm carb? Have you done any port work on this type of cylinder? I have a guy i might send it to who knows his stuff. I just wonder what if any more HP can be squeezed out of it.
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Post by nelson on Nov 26, 2013 10:50:39 GMT -5
Thank you everyone for your input, it is much appreciated.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 26, 2013 10:57:57 GMT -5
No exp with the cylinder you are getting, but it sounds like it's a good match for the ZX-R as-is. If you go changing around port durations you may find that all you get is a loss of bottom end and a narrow powerband that makes it a pain to tune. If you indeed wish to work on the cylinder, get it in your hands. Get it all mocked up, with the crank you'll be using, and get out the degree wheel or start taking measurements and run then through a porting calculator. Degree wheel is easier IMO. See where you're at before you make any changes.
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Post by kevin55950 on Nov 26, 2013 11:13:33 GMT -5
In your case, gains will be very minimal with another cylinder, most gains will be seen through tuning and adjustments. Changing port durations will make your cylinder veeery peaky and even harder to tune, you are better to tune it as-is, for the little gains you'll see.
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Post by nelson on Nov 26, 2013 11:26:59 GMT -5
then what would i do for the next "step up" in performance? i really do not want to clear the case for a large stroker. I have had bad experiences in the past. Broke a piston skirt at hi rpm it wedged between crank and case and cracked the case. It is extreamly difficult to find 2 stroke cases around here. I think my next project is a 70cc LC with electric waterpump. But would that net me any more HP? or would i just have a more dependable engine.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 26, 2013 12:01:22 GMT -5
There's a lot more to be had even in a 70cc AC. Different cylinder or cylinder tuning and a different pipe. To me, what you have is about where you should stay for a great street setup on a reasonable budget that you can ride for a long time.
You could look into kits like the Stage6 MKII and pipes like the Yasuni C16 for example to step it up. Those will require 19mm+ carb (DellOrto, Mikuni, etc... not some stock carb claimed to be 19mm). You could go beyond that even and spend thousands on pipes and cylinders and go to liquid cooling along with an over range trans. At that point, IMO, if you demand that kind of speed and daily riding... for that kind of money you should consider a big bike.
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Post by nelson on Nov 27, 2013 15:25:29 GMT -5
what do you do for a choke cable when you go with a phgb carb? i dont really need a choke IMO. do i have to do anything to the wires running to the auto choke on the stock carb?
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 27, 2013 17:00:03 GMT -5
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