My Strada.

[2TDave]

Just got back from a 10 mile or so ride. It's running good. Still a little sluggish(sputtering ) until it hits the pipe and then hold on. On my ride there was a change where the revs were getting higher than they had. Hit 10,900 and it was 10,500. I've got 5 gram rollers in, 100 main, clip is at the top and a 40 pilot. I ran a new plug and it looks good. Also the pipe has gotten louder since I started riding. I'm assuming it's breaking in or clearing the packing? I should have a medium contra Tuesday so I'll work with that as the soft I don't believe is stiff enough.

[90GTVert]

Could be the packing, but double check the header nuts or bolts as well as the silencer hardware.

[2TDave]

I've been retorqueing after every couple of rides. No sings of leaks. I've got a crush gasket in now but I think I'll order some flat gaskets.

[2TDave]

I'm going to mix the 5 and 5.5 gram rollers for my ride to a meeting this morning and see if that brings the revs down a bit. The sputtering from the start is in the cvt I think. It's almost like the clutch slipping and then grabbing when the revs get up. Make sense? 1.5 contra should be here tomorrow don't know if that will help. I also ordered some Vforce reeds, don't want to break a metal one. Will that require up jetting ? I'll put the motoforce unrestricted manifold in then. Oem one is cracked but not leaking.

[90GTVert]

You prob won't need to change jetting for the reeds, but it's always best to check or at least be alert of any changes like a new hesitation etc...

Check your clutch shoes and bell for glazing if you suspect excessive slip. If you see black marks on pulley faces then your belt could be slipping and needs a stiffer contra.

An exhaust leak on a 2T is often given away by black oily residue around it.

[2TDave]

Thanks. No exhaust leaks but went ahead and ordered some studs and flat gaskets. I like the idea of locking down nuts on studs rather than bolts. I'm a little lean mid throttle, going to raise the needle and head out west a bit and do some chops.

[2TDave]

Got the 1500 rpm contra this afternoon and got it in and ran it with the mix of 5 and 5.5 gram rollers I've been running with the 1k spring. Took off great but revs hit 11300 and that's a little scary with the stock crank. I put 6 grams in and will give it a test in the morning. Too much traffic and police on the 4 lane outside of our development.

[2TDave]

I posted a video in the pics and video section called '09 Strada rx8.

[2TDave]

Just installed the Vforce3 reed block and it is a definite improvement. Acceleration is much improved. It's windy as hell today so I don't know about top end but I let off at 60 and I was there quick.

[2TDave]

Forget the picture. Just a shot of the reed block. I'll have to get use to posting pics on the computer since they no longer work from my phone.

[2TDave]

I'd like to try and get a better launch from a stop. I've got 2k clutch springs in the stock clutch which engages at about 5200 rpm. It gets on the pipe at about 7700 rpm. Would an adjustable clutch help? I still need to be able to ride in traffic and at slower speeds in town. I've got 6 gram rollers in and it's revving to about 10,500 any lighter and the revs go up above my comfort level with a stock crank. The contra is a 1.5k. Also I've seen Hoca adjustable torque drivers, what will that help with.

[nelson]

Nice scooter man, looks good

[2TDave]

Thanks Nelson. I've been watching the 2 90 builds with interest. Keep it going.

[90GTVert]

If the front pulley is free, not squeezing the belt, that will help the clutch. The more the belt is squeezed the more you lose the initial takeoff ratio. That spins the clutch faster. While we relate the clutch to engine RPM, it is being driven by the engine through whatever ratio the front and rear pulleys are at. These are by no means real numbers, but just to make the point... Say you're clutch engages at 5,000RPM and the belt is free and weights and springs are right so the CVT is not shifting at all before engagement. For ease of math we'll say the drive ratio of the CVT is 2:1. The front pulley must turn 2X to rotate the rear pulley. So the clutch is engaging at 5,000 engine RPM, but it's actually turning at 2,500RPM since the engine rotates 2X to turn it 1X. Now if you're belt is squeezed up higher in the variator or the CVT is shifting ratios it will be a different story. Again we'll say your clutch is engaging at 5,000RPM, but this time your CVT has shifted to a 1:1 ratio now. This time the clutch is actually at 5,000RPM the same as the engine.

If you are working with the belt squeezed up in the variator by weights or spacing the CVT is in a different ratio that turns the rear pulley/clutch faster relative to engine speed. Free it up so the belt is resting on or nearer the drive boss and you will turn the clutch slower which results in needing more engine RPM to engage the clutch. This is the same reason that even though you may see 4500RPM at 20MPH with a setup that engages the clutch at 5000RPM, the clutch doesn't disengage because the CVT ratio is different and the clutch is spinning much more quickly than when your engine is at 5000RPM and the CVT is in "1st gear".

I really hope that made some sense how I said it. lol May not be your issue, but it's always good to check. It's an important part of clutch engagement that very many don't put a bit of thought into.

[90GTVert]

The adjustable torque driver is a straight groove unit. It helps to eliminate the abrupt shift that is present in some CVT setups and keep RPM more steady. The adjustable bit is because there are 2 groove angles to choose from that will slightly alter how the TD/CVT change ratios. They are helpful for peaky setups where you don't have a wide spread of power. I use standard 2 angle groove TDs on most of my street 2T setups because sometimes they're better for low RPM cruising than the straight grooves from what I've seen.