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Post by Sitticuss on Jun 27, 2014 21:05:58 GMT -5
Sweet
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 27, 2014 21:13:12 GMT -5
The motor was advertised as having a bbk but it's a stock cylinder which is okay because I plan on doing it how I want anyway and besides if you look at the piston in the pic below it would have been a shame for someone to gouge a bbk piston putting in a clip is my guess.  So I got it tore down as far as I could without a flywheel puller which should be delivered tomorrow. I went ahead and pulled the gear box apart so I can change those bearings and am thinking I might want to have the cases blasted. Any thoughts on that? They're pretty rough and I like clean. Except my work bench. There I like filth. |
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 28, 2014 6:58:37 GMT -5
Anyone have a good source for bearings. I'll be replacing all the gearbox, crank and hanger bearings. The prices I'm finding are all over the place.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 28, 2014 7:55:33 GMT -5
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 28, 2014 7:58:41 GMT -5
Thanks Brent
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 28, 2014 16:11:04 GMT -5
I got my flywheel puller today and finished splitting the cases. These things aren't matched at all. There are lips where the cases meet that look to be 4 or 5 mm. Should the lows be filled and if so with what or the highs ground down. I've read about crankcase compression but I'm still trying to make my brain understand. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about.   |
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Post by moofus02 on Jun 28, 2014 16:24:23 GMT -5
The set I sent 2stroked were from 2 different engines and matched up real good that's kind of ugly.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by Sitticuss on Jun 28, 2014 16:31:00 GMT -5
they look a lot like mine...even though Baccio supposedly makes a better motor..But on the plus side if i make a mistake...they didn't match well anyways..so order another one...
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 28, 2014 16:45:04 GMT -5
Yeah it's ugly but if the ones in the scoot look like that and if I remember they do than I should see some pretty decent gains once they're matched. The only thing left in the cases is a bearing in the gear box because I don't have a puller for it. The kit was $80 at hf so I passed and the steel sleeve that has something to do with the starter clutch. I know that needs to go for an OR and I saw where Brent cut one off but I was wondering if there is another way.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 28, 2014 18:20:51 GMT -5
You can just tap the starter boss off from the inside since it's apart and it'll be reusable should you want e-start again.
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 28, 2014 18:29:20 GMT -5
I cut it. There was no lip overhanging to tap from the inside. Looking at it from the outside you could see a ring of aluminum case. So what's the deal as far as filling or grinding it both to match the cases?
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Post by moofus02 on Jun 28, 2014 18:50:13 GMT -5
You can tap that steel starter thing off from the inside while you got the cases split. Don't need to remove it just all the stuff that goes with it for the overrange on my yamaha.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 28, 2014 19:40:25 GMT -5
It's cut and gone now but here's a pic. Don't know what I would of tapped on.  |
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 29, 2014 10:12:24 GMT -5
We were talking about different cvt covers and fitting an OR with them so I checked the three motors and covers I have and they all have the BOT stamp. All measure between 128 and 128.5 inside. Two cases are stamped qj 1e40qmb and one ve1e40qmb.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 29, 2014 10:16:09 GMT -5
I think all of those are going to need clearancing if you go with the OR. It's really not a big deal though. Takes some time, but it's not hard. You could remove material faster with a carbide cutter, but unless you have a lot of skill or some sort of jig I can't imagine it's going to be easy to get an even finish that way.
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