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Post by AlexF2294 on Apr 30, 2014 19:09:36 GMT -5
1. Dont replace the CDI, just cut the pink wire that sends signals to the back tire to back up when it reachs the optimal speed. If you cut the pink wire, the signal never reaches the back tire; thus, you will be able to go full throttle.
Is this true?
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Post by 2TDave on Apr 30, 2014 19:21:43 GMT -5
Some have a green looped wire that comes out and goes back in the cdi. That is a rev. limiter that can be cut. Haven't heard of any pink wires and nothing talks to the back wheel.
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Post by AlexF2294 on Apr 30, 2014 19:28:09 GMT -5
Well I kind of figured the part about the back wheel was crap, I was just wondering about the wire.
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Post by AlexF2294 on Apr 30, 2014 19:28:25 GMT -5
And where would my CDI be located?
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 30, 2014 19:45:59 GMT -5
The cdi should be relatovely close to the stator. Follow the wires out of the stator side up to the first box, that should be the cdi. I cant say for all, butmine is right next to the seat bucket under the main skirting.
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Post by AlexF2294 on Apr 30, 2014 19:49:01 GMT -5
I found a black thing with wires coming out of it inside the place where you would put your feet when I was taking the scoot apart. It was under a hidden door... Lol. Would that be it?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 30, 2014 20:12:39 GMT -5
There are some that have a wire leading to a pickup similar to what you'd see on your stator. It would be able to provide a signal to tell how many RPM the clutch bell is turning. The clutch bell is directly connected to the final drive gears so they can calculate at what RPM the clutch bell has to turn to go X speed. I guess then when the RPM is beyond a certain point it kills spark or retards timing so you can't go faster. Most of our scooters don't have this. if you do it should be obvious because normally there is no wire going into the CVT cover.
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Post by AlexF2294 on May 1, 2014 12:25:39 GMT -5
What exactly does a performance CDI do?
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Post by 90GTVert on May 1, 2014 13:41:13 GMT -5
Nobody knows.  The idea would be that it changes ignition timing in a manner favorable to performance. The reality is that pretty much anything we find that's a reasonable price has an unknown timing curve. It could be nothing more than a stock replacement in fancy packaging. I've tested a few CDIs for the 1E40QMB and the 139QMB and so far they all remain on the shelf after giving them a fair chance. The only way I can accurately call the cheap ones "racing" CDIs is if you count the money racing out of my wallet to buy them. This is not to say every CDI is bad. I personally don't recommend buying whatever is cheap on eBay though. Do some research and be prepared to spend a bit more if you find one with published and verified timing curves or spend a lot more and get something trick like an MSD CDI for a couple hundred dollars so you can set the curve on your PC. It's a 4T, but here's a vid with lots of ignition system tests. www.youtube.com/watch?v=p63JXW29tVoHere's a vid showing adjustment of timing on a 2T. www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d8qHNNi5CAHere are the timing curves I recorded with a few CDIs for the 2T. You can find the full details in the Project 90 thread in the Tech Library 2T section.  |
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Post by AlexF2294 on May 1, 2014 14:43:12 GMT -5
How do I want to set this?  |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 1, 2014 14:59:06 GMT -5
02 : Once per revolution.
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Post by AlexF2294 on May 1, 2014 15:02:11 GMT -5
Thanks
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Post by joshua864 on May 1, 2014 16:08:52 GMT -5
My cdi or what I think that is was under my battery box. When I got to looking it over when I got it home found all wires had be. Cut and twisted back together w/o tape so that was first thing I fixed
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Post by AlexF2294 on May 1, 2014 18:22:49 GMT -5
Just got it. Thanks 2strokd. I'll put it on when it gets warmer and try to make a vid of it running.  |
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Post by AlexF2294 on May 1, 2014 18:56:14 GMT -5
It looks like the restrictor was already removed from this pipe too  |
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