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Also consider the tire grows at speed a considerable amount, and under breaking the forks will bend backwards slightly

You need to have a good amount of clearance!

So these are the tools you need to make to take this apart. 1-9/16 hole cut in a plate then cut in half, then a 14mm and the same, you can then clamp the shock shaft and the shock body in the vice to take the end and the yoke off.



So set the piston depth, then fill the chamber and insert the piston and shaft.. you need to work the bubbles out. Lift the dampening rod up so its easier to pump and pump it till the bubbles stop, tap the sides then pump more.... then take a break and pump it again.

Then fill it to the top again and insert the seal head into position



Then pump it again.. and again, tip it around, tap the sides and pump it. When i did this step and installed the clip it had some trapped air so i pulled the c clip and washer and re did it.. you can feel the trapped air when you change direction or get to the ends of the travel.. it will get momentarily easy.. if that is the case, you have to redo this step. Also you want to keep the little hole here covered with oil so you want to top it up and pump slowly, otherwise you can just pump more air back in.



Then install your seal, clip and washer. make sure you have the tube full of oil when you push the seal in again so you don't trap air under it. i tipped mine around a bit.



Then your done with that end.. next up nitrogen fill.

Well my new RS24 shock leaks. I tried to contact Malossi via their website and their instagram feed and got nowhere.



That is pretty disheartening considering I hold their products in pretty high regard to literally not hear back from anyone even to say they won't warranty or fix it.

So I took it apart, It is a "non serviceable" shock.

It has no provisions to refill the nitrogen once it is released. I however am just going to add the provision to do so via either a needle fill or a schrader valve.

So lets look inside!

Disassembly was medium difficulty. Inside the top eyelet is just the gas chamber, using an electric heatgun to soften the thread sealant it opens up to nothing, also nothing can come out this way either. There is a step preventing it. Also if you shock has pressure this is the end you have to be the most careful with. either drill a small hole you will later use for your fill valve or turn slowly. Malossi Charges these with 10 Atmosphere of nitrogen, it will make a big pop if you let it out at once.

So you have to take the bottom yoke, again using the heatgun method to soften the thread sealant. once that is off you have to pry the decorative cover off the bottom that also houses the dust shield.

Once that is out of the way you end up with a circlip and washer, then the seal head and all the oil and the valve will slide out.

So I couldn't see where mine was leaking from, but after some head scratching I think I figured it out. I think the seal head or the shock body are mis machined.



So the washer should have a positive engagement on the seal to keep it in place and the pressure from leaking behind it. But as we can see there is a gap.

So I machined up a new washer



It actually requires you to push the seal in slightly when you install the snap ring.



I installed new orings, and installed the gas chamber piston in at a height of 22mm.. kinda an educated guess.



Then taped the threads to keep from cutting the seal and installed the seal head and seal



Next up is adding the fill in the top cap and adding oil.

Got bored.

3.0 x10 slick stretched on the wide typhoon wheels.



Probably going to be on 10"... I just can't get used to the 12"



It also makes it shorter and more zip like.

Did I mention I really want a Zip?

Still need to find a euro headlight..

You want to run that screen it keeps dirt/debris from jamming up the petcock.