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Post by spaz12 on May 19, 2016 17:53:20 GMT -5
That looks dark for just 300 miles. Are you using synthetic?
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Post by ryan_ott on May 19, 2016 19:01:36 GMT -5
I was using mobile1. That's just motor oil. I'll try the gear oil and see if it's better if not I may just open it up to check things out. It may be the design of the trans. I found some pics I had and the smaller center gear just rides in the case no bearings. The axle and clutch shaft have 2 bearings each.   |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 19, 2016 19:12:42 GMT -5
I stick with gear oil. As said, it's designed for the task. When my gear oil comes out grey, it's almost always an issue like bearing wear. Not trying to alarm you; that's just how it's worked for me. Mobil 1 75W90 tends to come out looking good on frequent changes if nothing is tearing itself up. Get a magnetic drain plug in there and you can tell even more when you change the oil. I've never seen grey oil with no metal on the magnet.
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Post by ryan_ott on May 19, 2016 19:48:33 GMT -5
Besides it being dark and having a very slight shimmer to it it's clean, no material is in there. I'll still see if I can find a magnetic screw this small or just make one up. See people I made the drain plug at the BOTTOM for a reason. Thanks for the input guys. I think I'm going to get a gasket and open the gear box just for peace of mind.
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Post by gsx600racer on May 19, 2016 20:22:11 GMT -5
I do find it fascinating with the Honda's transmissions recommending engine oil, where the Kymco clones of Honda's recommend gear oil. I just switched to Amsoil 80-90 synth. I can say this much, get this oil on your hands, takes a day or two to get it completely off. Hard to describe but this oil "clings" to everything that come in contact with. Also notice the gears are quieter. Just my 2 cents.  |
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Post by ryan_ott on May 19, 2016 20:29:54 GMT -5
Good info just in time since Im going to meet up with my local amsoil guy tomorrow. I'll pick up a bottle and check it out.
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Post by gsx600racer on May 19, 2016 20:55:08 GMT -5
I know some might frown on this but if the gear box has a drain on the bottom, I will flush the gear box out with kerosene. Once filled(with kero), I use a drill to drive the primary shaft and let it "slosh" around a bit before draining. I also place a rare earth magnet(cannibalized from a old pc hard drive) near bottom to capture any steel bits. Once drained, I blow out the residual and let dry for a bit before adding new oil. It amazing how much more debris get washed out. I might also do this more than once depending on how much debris do come out.
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Post by tsimi on May 19, 2016 22:01:33 GMT -5
ryan_ott PIGQuick question regarding the HIT clutch. Removing the pillow springs gives you the best, instant grip right? So the higher the kg the better right? For the clutch springs the lower the kg the faster she engages right?
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Post by ryan_ott on May 20, 2016 5:33:38 GMT -5
ryan_ott PIGQuick question regarding the HIT clutch. Removing the pillow springs gives you the best, instant grip right? So the higher the kg the better right? For the clutch springs the lower the kg the faster she engages right? The lighter the clutch spring the sooner it will engage, the pillow springs delay the "lock up" if too light on the clutch springs you won't be in the power and and acceleration will be slower. Removing the pillow springs will cause instant lock up but if not in the correct power it may cause chattering. So the pillow springs kind of let it slip in for smoother starts. |
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Post by ryan_ott on May 20, 2016 5:37:17 GMT -5
I'm using red clutch springs with blue pillow springs. My initial engagement is around 6400 and full lock is by 7200.
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Post by tsimi on May 20, 2016 5:38:58 GMT -5
Thanks Ryan!
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Post by Senna1Rossi on May 25, 2016 17:48:59 GMT -5
Dang, I need to read through this whole build! Friggin awesome  |
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Post by ryan_ott on Jun 7, 2016 19:50:26 GMT -5
Well I found the issue causing the metallic gear oil - the shims. Looks like when it was originally assembled the used a smaller diameter then required. The first pic above you can see the start of it polishing my bearing journal. No real damage just polished the alumnium. This bike is a 98 and mid 98 they changed a few bearings and shafts so maybe that's why. The parts list has the one shim as obsolete so maybe they caught onto this issue. Glad it was simple. While I have it out and apart I'm thinking I'm going to backtrack a bit. This motor never got ported when assembled. I never pulled the crank out so I just didn't go there. I'm going to open up the intake window and still run the low mile stock crank. It's holding up fine so far turning 10.5k This is one stupid quick scoot with its bottle neck intake so I can only imagine after its opened up. I need to get some new head studs also I found one stripped. Just the stud not the block. That's all for now  Correct size on the right  |
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Post by ryan_ott on Jun 7, 2016 21:43:52 GMT -5
Cleaned up the intake, smoothed the bottom floor and raised the windows. Should help a bit.   |
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Post by niz76 on Jun 7, 2016 22:15:02 GMT -5
Oh ya nice and big! What do those passages sound like when you yell into them now?? Echo!... Echo.......Echo......Echo..
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