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Post by hellish100 on Jan 1, 2018 14:39:35 GMT -5
Pics finally! i was more than happy to remove the starter boss but I noticed that I was still running into a clearance issue getting the variator to clear and have enough room on the crank for the variator star and kick start sprawl to seat fully. I dremeled a bit of the actual case to clear and I’m super happy with the results. I used the supplied spacer and washer with the kit and it’s dead-nuts as they say.      |
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Post by hellish100 on Jan 2, 2018 22:56:52 GMT -5
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Post by hellish100 on Jan 8, 2018 16:23:55 GMT -5
  buttoned up the gearbox and CVT. I installed a matching 90/90-10 Heidenau rear tire. I was able to install the tubeless tire without a tube and it worked great! The original tire had a tube. I drilled out the tire stem and installed a 90 degree stem. It took a bead with no issues. |
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Jan 9, 2018 9:33:18 GMT -5
Is the rim shaped right to lock the bead solidly with no tube? I know that is also one of the issues, other than sealiny, with tubeless tires on rims designed for tubes.
I've been following this as I have a seized Express and an extra longcase Minarelli engine.
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Post by benji on Jan 9, 2018 10:15:11 GMT -5
I've heard of guys using no tube on rims meant for tubes. Be careful as those rims lack the little speed bumps that keep the bead on the out side of the rim, so sideways pressure (such as cornering) can literally pop the tire off the bead.
I usually use tubes, even on tubeless rims. Easier to set the bead and also easier to move the tire around on the rim for adjustment. Oh, and stretched-tire/fatty-wheel guys need to try using tubes. Easiest way to get a 2.75x10 tire on a 3.5" wide ruckus wheel haha.
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Post by hellish100 on Jan 9, 2018 22:48:17 GMT -5
I have been doing tires for a long time. The way that the bead snapped to the rim looked/sounded like any tire I’ve replaced on a car. I feel pretty confident in the rim/tire combo. Either way, this will be a track vehicle only. If it fails, it will fail in a safe environment and not the street. You will all be kept up to date with how this tire works.  Thomas. If you have the parts then you should put one together! |
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Post by hellish100 on Jan 14, 2018 22:52:47 GMT -5
Teardown in 4 minutes! I'm adding a frame brace and some other gussets for the engine mount.
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Post by Tanuki on Jan 15, 2018 1:59:05 GMT -5
Ah man, the video is down
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Post by jbjhillbilly on Jan 15, 2018 13:44:05 GMT -5
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Post by hellish100 on Jan 16, 2018 11:30:33 GMT -5
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Post by moofus02 on Jan 16, 2018 14:36:54 GMT -5
That should stiffen it up. Man I like this thing
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Post by drc174 on Jan 16, 2018 23:02:18 GMT -5
Put a piece of plexi between that reinforcement and the frame! Your legs will thank you! (love the build) |
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Post by hellish100 on Feb 19, 2018 9:38:23 GMT -5
I was thinking about building a custom gas tank that would fit in that space but that is big bucks, still thinking about it though! I pulled the trigger on this part: www.steadygarage.com/store/chimera-rkd-honda-ruckus-oem-steel-rim-disc-brake-converterI want to keep the stock rim and run disc brakes. All together the cost to build the brake system I want will be like $700. It's going to be a while before you see that done! Also, I got the vid back up and running a few posts earlier. You can see how easy it is to tear this apart.  |
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Post by hellish100 on Mar 12, 2018 20:44:11 GMT -5
I finally have a gas tank! It is one of those 2 liter mini tanks for a motorized bicycle but hey if it works then I'm going to run with it. I pulled the Express out to see how she would run and the answer is terribly. Lots of coughing and backfiring with lots of smoke. I am running 30:1 with a Dellorto 21mm carb. It would rev up to about 4k and it just made no power. Then it didn't want to start at all. I tired a new plug, going to a 50 pilot jet from a 60. I dropped the mail jet from a 105 to a 90 and it made no difference. This is the first time I've had the scoot fully together with this top end, pipe and carb configuration. I feel like it's: bad ignition timing, although I never touched it. poor compression - a ring could have not sealed? really rich fuel settings. port timings - they are all stock though? or a combination of all those things. I am ordering a compression tester soon. Any suggestions on what else this could be? Mina 90cc shortcase with 54mm big bore kit.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 12, 2018 21:02:58 GMT -5
Add bad reed valve to your list of things to check.
50-60 pilot sounds pretty big for a 21mm DellOrto if that's a PHBG. Mine are all in the 30s.
My experience with Peace Pipes has been that they hit hard, but they wanna have some RPM. If you don't get the CVT setup "free" enough, it will be next to impossible to tune. A rich tune plus a CVT where the weights are too heavy will really make it rough. All of that extra fuel cools everything down and makes it even harder for the pipe to hit. Ignition timing can be advanced to help a pipe reach it's powerband, but I wouldn't go doing that just yet. I think you have a lot of other stuff to cover first. If you do wanna check ignition timing, stock advance is generally between 10-15 degrees at idle/2000RPM. Varies a little.
You'll probably benefit from something more aggressive than stock port timings, but it should work so it's another thing to leave for now. Save that tuning for after it runs alright.
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