|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Jan 17, 2022 8:00:35 GMT -5
That's a tidy looking conversion.
The difference between a drum brake rear and a disk one here is three times as much, if you can find a drum wheel.
Would probably work out cheaper to buy a conversation kit.
|
|
|
|
Post by x7rocks on Jan 17, 2022 9:37:33 GMT -5
I was able to get atleast 20 of those hubs made before and was able to sell them to many members on Facebook groups and only kept 1 for myself. The new design were trying to go for will have 4 bolt pattern and the simple aerox 3 wheel bolt pattern so we can make these wheels fit the zumas in the u.s
Specially since aerox 100 wheels are so rare. I'm 🤏 close to seeing if it's possible to reproduce them somewhere so we can skip the hub production process in general.
I've also thought about seeing if making a hub for 1e40qmb engines (long case) so there could be a bit more wheel options as well.
|
|
|
|
Post by pete130 on Jan 28, 2022 7:47:36 GMT -5
Nice work. Aerox 100cc rear wheels are very rare. Only seen one on eBay in two years on a saved search. And they wanted crazy money for it. Australia had the aerox, and bws 100, so might find one there. Not a lot of performance parts for the 100 motor. But some work with a file might get good results. Wow I didnt relise aerox 100cc parts were hard for you to get. I get 1 or 2 every 3 months here for sale |
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Jan 28, 2022 15:39:39 GMT -5
Nice work. Aerox 100cc rear wheels are very rare. Only seen one on eBay in two years on a saved search. And they wanted crazy money for it. Australia had the aerox, and bws 100, so might find one there. Not a lot of performance parts for the 100 motor. But some work with a file might get good results. Wow I didnt relise aerox 100cc parts were hard for you to get. I get 1 or 2 every 3 months here for sale It was easier to make the 50 faster than you could make the 100cc, so everyone brought the 50. |
|
|
|
Post by x7rocks on Feb 1, 2022 14:08:06 GMT -5
Wow I didnt relise aerox 100cc parts were hard for you to get. I get 1 or 2 every 3 months here for sale It was easier to make the 50 faster than you could make the 100cc, so everyone brought the 50. Kinda a shame too as it still feels like a strong platform to work with. But the different bolt pattern surely doesn't allow for much options cylinder wise. I think the only race style cylinder available is an aluminum one sold by some Japanese manufacturer but is air cooled and wanted i to keep Temps low in Florida temperatures so I went the liquid cooled route. But I might as well update this thread. The pilot jet is driving me a bit nuts with its inconsistencies. One day it will idle at 1900 rpms comfortably. Then the next it doesn't want to idle that low without cutting off on me. An that's with a 38 pilot jet. I've seen people with drr 100cc engines say they run 40 to 45 pilot jet.but if I try that the low end is just gurgling and struggling to push its own weight unless I go full wot. Currently it's at 1.5 turns out on the 38 pilot and still doing the same nonsense of just not wanting to idle comfortably without it hanging from a throttle blip until it decides to settle at a slightly lower rpm. But I'm confused if It's due to the pilot being lean or too rich as I've seen explanations from keihin state it could be either or despite my idle screw not being really tightened up. |
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Feb 1, 2022 19:00:32 GMT -5
High hanging idle is a lean condition,is that a genuine 38 pilot jet?Try richening the idle air screw (clockwise),then adjust the idle speed with the slide stop screw,,perhaps a 40 pilot backed out around 3 turns to start with would work..I like a rich idle with some sputter at part throttle to keep the engine lubed when the throttle is closed,,  |
|
|
|
Post by x7rocks on Feb 3, 2022 12:53:16 GMT -5
High hanging idle is a lean condition,is that a genuine 38 pilot jet?Try richening the idle air screw (clockwise),then adjust the idle speed with the slide stop screw,,perhaps a 40 pilot backed out around 3 turns to start with would work..I like a rich idle with some sputter at part throttle to keep the engine lubed when the throttle is closed,, Exactly how I like my low-end to be as well (better safe than sorry) . It's a genuine keihin pilot jet but I do notice for a "clean" sounding idle at 38 pilot it needs to be close to 2 turns out. But then it won't want to drop back to idle. But the closer I get toward a more closed position the more it will drop to its lowest idle (so from reading pwk info from keihin they recommend a richer pilot) so next step is a genuine 40. I'm also going over the engine to make sure there's no air leaks as well. |
|
|
|
Post by x7rocks on Feb 4, 2022 19:24:03 GMT -5
On a more positive note besides little pilot jet woes. I got shipping confirmation after the exhaust had some finishing touches done to it. I present the beruggo 117cc to 128cc exhaust. Made in Columbia   |
|
|
|
Post by x7rocks on Feb 10, 2022 13:40:50 GMT -5
Okay, so I installed a 45 keihin jet. Nothing :/ if I try to add just add a tiny bit of throttle it always stays sticking it's rpm really high and only goes down with the screw tightened all the way but then won't idle for crap without the idle screw being all the way in, and still have a hanging idle..
Next step is a keihin 48 pilot jet. Just feel it's strange for such a large pilot. But then again it's my first 100cc big bore build.
An my exhaust should be in today. I'll try the 48 pilot before installing the pilot as I'd really like a nice crisp idle and for it to return to idle smoothly with the pilot screw atleast 3 to 2 1/2 turns out.
|
|
|
|
Post by fly on Feb 10, 2022 15:40:15 GMT -5
So, when I was researching aftermarket idle screws I found info with people having an air leak they couldn't track down. It wound up being the OE idle screw has some dope on it, the aftermarkets don't come with anything. It's a high vacuum area, and if that screw is not air tight it can cause strange problems.
Just throwing that out there. As I recall, the problem was hanging idle that jetting couldn't fix. With an OKO maybe something to double check even with stock screws.
|
|
|
|
Post by x7rocks on Feb 10, 2022 18:46:23 GMT -5
So, when I was researching aftermarket idle screws I found info with people having an air leak they couldn't track down. It wound up being the OE idle screw has some dope on it, the aftermarkets don't come with anything. It's a high vacuum area, and if that screw is not air tight it can cause strange problems. Just throwing that out there. As I recall, the problem was hanging idle that jetting couldn't fix. With an OKO maybe something to double check even with stock screws. Thats an excellent idea as I just put a 48 pilot jet in, and unless the screw is out 3 half turns it won't have a decent low idle for more than 10 seconds before dying. Or if I tighten ever so slightly it just keeps hanging only to die a second later. Right now I kinda called it quits at 2 turns out with a higher than normal idle (I usually like calm idling engines) but it seems with the mvt ignition I'm gonna have to suck it up and stick with a 2400 rpm idle. But I did receive my exhaust and its beautiful. I'll make a video tomorrow showing how it sounds along with giving a few rides while making adjustments to the engine at full temp on the road. Maybe I can dial it in better once I run around the neighborhood a few times and get things up to 75 degree Celsius cylinder temp wise. |
|
|
|
Post by fly on Feb 10, 2022 21:08:11 GMT -5
Well the new pipe may make a difference, too! Maybe the different resonance characteristics will play better with the timing.
But if you're having to go far in on the screw, the slide being that open might cause the hanging idle. 2400 is pretty high, I feel like. But I have no idea how a scoot like that is best set up.
I keep mine at 1800, I like my scoots high strung lol. I feel like a lot of people like ~1500. For me getting that meant going up a PJ and raising the needle one. But I just didn't like it as much.
|
|
|
|
Post by x7rocks on Feb 10, 2022 22:05:56 GMT -5
Well the new pipe may make a difference, too! Maybe the different resonance characteristics will play better with the timing. But if you're having to go far in on the screw, the slide being that open might cause the hanging idle. 2400 is pretty high, I feel like. But I have no idea how a scoot like that is best set up. I keep mine at 1800, I like my scoots high strung lol. I feel like a lot of people like ~1500. For me getting that meant going up a PJ and raising the needle one. But I just didn't like it as much. I'm content with 1800 And during the summer it did idle around that rpm, but it did have a slight hang in idle that lead me to have more concerns over that issue. But having gone 10 sizes up makes me question the pilot screw having a leak or if one of my new intake gaskets just isn't sealing properly. Or a crank seal is calling it quits after running a cylinder with way more compression than the stock one did. Even my little 50cc with the same mvt setup. Once warmed up would idle nicely at 1800 rpms. |
|
|
|
Post by x7rocks on Feb 11, 2022 12:40:35 GMT -5
  youtu.be/tLIsKVsZwcoFirst off. Wow. Even with the weights being too heavy the engine had enough torque to still get up to speed. An that's when the powerband kicks in, and it brings this engine to a whole new level. Gonna make a few adjustments and have an update soon |
|
|
|
Post by fly on Feb 11, 2022 15:00:47 GMT -5
That looks and sounds amazing. 🤩
|
|
