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Post by 2stroked on May 19, 2014 18:14:35 GMT -5
Yeah, its nasty lookin'.
Hey, sitticuss, how bout I mail it your way, and u tell me what it tastes like!:lol:
Just kiddin'.
Na, it couldnt gave been put there, the bike was in my back bedroom. Maybe some kind of algea? Grown cuz of the damn ethanol they put in gas now, maybe something that was growing into the tank of tge gas station I pumped from? Has to be a breed of fungi or algea.
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Post by AlexF2294 on May 19, 2014 19:10:12 GMT -5
That looks nasty...
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Post by 2stroked on May 21, 2014 15:06:26 GMT -5
Okay, I had a hunch, that my low power was NOT just an overly rich condition, so I pulled the jug for inspection. Due to the many, many soft siezes thepiston was scored. Duh. But, the thing is, the bottom ring was stuck in its grove, almost 3/4 of the circumferance. So, a new set of rings, and some gasket making later, I slapped it back together.
Started with the first kick. I am getting ready to run in the rings, but I have a quick question.
It has a great take off, and hits the pipe quick, but almost as soon as the pipe hits, it shifts and drops out of the power. I am using four gram wieghts, and a blue ( 1k ) contra. If I swap to a yellow 1.5k spring,, would that help, or hurt?
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Post by moofus02 on May 21, 2014 17:07:08 GMT -5
It might over Rev on take off but it will get the rpm up after the shift
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 2stroked on May 21, 2014 17:39:35 GMT -5
It might over Rev on take off but it will get the rpm up after the shift Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards So, its the t.d. limiting me? Or what? Cuz, I maxed at 44 today, before the pipe, I maxed at 46-48. Thats what made me think the contra spring was the cause. I still love the sound of that pipe when it rings. |
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Post by moofus02 on May 21, 2014 17:52:14 GMT -5
If it drops out of the power after the shift a stiffer contra or lighter rollers should help. If it's not in the power it may not be making enough to buck the wind
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 2stroked on May 21, 2014 19:58:30 GMT -5
It revs quick at take off, the pipe hits, revs higher faster, grabs harder, then shifts, revs drop, then slowly climb, but not back to the pipes rpm range. And, if I run wot, I can feel more power there, but it wont come through. Does that make any sense? Ya know that feeling, when an older.car has a stopped fuel filter, like it has more, but it just cant find it? On take off, power wheely! But then it shifts. I am thinking of swapping to the red 2k clutch springs, for more of a hole shot effect. I am going to try a stiffer contra in the morning as well. Maybe lighter rollers?IDK Open to suggestions......
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Post by moofus02 on May 21, 2014 20:24:47 GMT -5
A Straight groove td would eliminate that shift that is killing you. Tune for the rpm you want and it stays steady
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 2stroked on May 21, 2014 20:41:12 GMT -5
Great, something else for my wishlist.......
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Post by 190mech on May 21, 2014 20:57:14 GMT -5
Might wanna try breaking down the stock T-D and doing a clean/inspect/lube before spending money..My CPI did similar stuff and drove me nuts till I found the Torque Driver slots gummed with dried grease from 8000+ miles!A simple clean/lube got it going great again..Still running the same unit....
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Post by 2stroked on May 22, 2014 8:22:56 GMT -5
Cool, will do. Thanx for the tip 190mech.
Also, going to pull the head, and get some measurements for the port timing calculator. See if I can find any more umph there as well.
I might need yet a smaller pilot jet. I have a 17.5, but it is too rich at idle, and nowhere else. Thats driving me nuts! Does PFS sell pilots too, I've never looked? I am sure they do. That pilit jet has drove me nuts lately..:banghead:
After idle, its great, but if I leave it idle longer than a minute, it starts popping and eventualy dies out. Still a bit rich at higher throttle spots too, but after midrange, no popping. I swapped the longer needle from the stock carb to the Miki carb. Tried the stock carb again, but it has a huge ass pilot. It always did flood at idle. Hell, at least its running now, better than my last attempt at sealing a case!
I have my other block together atm, but need a vari side seal for it. I had planned on using the spare and trying to build up the one thats on the bike now. But.....
I hear a pot of coffee calling my name. Later....
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Post by 90GTVert on May 22, 2014 8:30:40 GMT -5
If PFS sells pilots I don't see them. Wherever you find them, look them over and measure if the site provides measurements. While the stock 1E40QMB carbs all seem to share the same main jets, there are different styles of pilot jets.
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Post by Sitticuss on May 22, 2014 9:13:02 GMT -5
wow I have a 34 in mine...how many turns out are you on the air/mix screw. Mine is rich also at idle. I looked but couldn't find an exact match for my idle jet. I just set my mix out at 2 turns its a little rich at idle. My bikes never sits at idle long anyway. I'm always pumping that throttle at lights anyway.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 22, 2014 10:25:54 GMT -5
All of my stock carbs are 17.5 to 22 (or is it 22.5?) pilots.
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Post by 2stroked on May 22, 2014 11:01:03 GMT -5
I have to have the a/f screw oout to 1-1 1/2, atm, till I get a 70&75 mj. Yeah, miki ccarbs from what I see tend to use small pilots.
@90, yeah, I looked too. The mikuni pilots are way different than the stock type. Wonder who would have a pilot for this carb.
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