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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 30, 2014 17:56:39 GMT -5
I screwed around with different sizes from different places and the first one I got to seal for a while was when I went back to one of the ones from a cheap eBay kit.
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Troll
Scoot Enthusiast
Fastest 50cc in Upstate SC
Posts: 357
Location: Enoree, SC
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Post by Troll on May 1, 2014 10:04:12 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on May 1, 2014 10:17:57 GMT -5
The crank seal behind the variator is 19.8x30x5 (151-2).
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Troll
Scoot Enthusiast
Fastest 50cc in Upstate SC
Posts: 357
Location: Enoree, SC
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Post by Troll on May 1, 2014 10:21:34 GMT -5
That's what I was thinking, thank you
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Troll
Scoot Enthusiast
Fastest 50cc in Upstate SC
Posts: 357
Location: Enoree, SC
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Post by Troll on May 15, 2014 17:25:25 GMT -5
So I received the 26mm carb Monday and been tinkering with it, It came with a 105 main and 35 idle jet installed. The idle jet seems fine but no matter what jet I put in it when you pop the throttle it revs high as hell for a good couple of seconds before idling down. The air/fuel screw was preset at 3 turns out. Now I have main jets from 72 - 110 and idle jets from 35 - 40, my question is what would be a good starting point to start at with this project and is there any videos on adjusting the air/fuel and maybe one that's out of tune. Cause you can adjust it and it rev high but then adjust the idle screw down and it sounds the same no matter what. Each time I've took it down the road I have great takeoff but lose top end and you can feel the scoot wanting to go faster. But like I said I need a good starting point though.
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Post by 190mech on May 15, 2014 19:50:05 GMT -5
Idle mixture is lean,install a bigger idle(pilot) jet..4 strokes are REAL sensitive to idle mixture....
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Troll
Scoot Enthusiast
Fastest 50cc in Upstate SC
Posts: 357
Location: Enoree, SC
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Post by Troll on May 15, 2014 21:45:57 GMT -5
I'll try the 40 then and keep the 105 in and try that out. Thanks
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Post by Kick start on May 16, 2014 11:34:51 GMT -5
if it dose not like to stay at a cruising speed like 20 or 30 your idle would be to big. should be the 38 or a 40.
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Troll
Scoot Enthusiast
Fastest 50cc in Upstate SC
Posts: 357
Location: Enoree, SC
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Post by Troll on Jun 17, 2014 17:14:40 GMT -5
So I've put around 5000km on the motor and it's running great as long as the seals stay put. Both crank seals started leaking, first the one on the stator side then the other one which poured oil out. It also got sucked in all the way to the crank and I know that's not where it was when I replaced it a couple of weeks ago.  Then after I pull off the stator side of the block to get to that seal (Let me note that my girlfriends 2 year old could've broke the bolts loose because they where not torqued at all and when I called STG to inform them that they might want to double check there torques on these motors, he sounded like he could care less and I was just bothering him.)I noticed that the bolt behind the the oil pump pulley had done ran out and has been resting against the the pulley for only gad knows how long.  Picture was taken as soon as I pulled the case and that's how it was sitting. Now I'm not dogging STG for this because I have been running the shit out of this motor and it has been great, customer service could be a little better though when someone is trying to inform you about a possible failure that would've been from there builders workmanship. I will still say that they did a good job on these builds and there worth every penny for what's in the motor and there awesome for an everyday rider, there just hell on oil seals and I suggest running a Kevlar belt. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 17, 2014 18:30:41 GMT -5
Thank you for the update. You could try a 19mm ID seal instead so it's a bit more snug. Mine leak regularly, but I haven't had any move inward noticeably.
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Troll
Scoot Enthusiast
Fastest 50cc in Upstate SC
Posts: 357
Location: Enoree, SC
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Post by Troll on Jun 17, 2014 18:40:46 GMT -5
I ordered the OEM sizes, just wish I didn't have to tear apart the case to replace the 16.4 seal.
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Post by 190mech on Jun 17, 2014 20:48:10 GMT -5
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Troll
Scoot Enthusiast
Fastest 50cc in Upstate SC
Posts: 357
Location: Enoree, SC
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Post by Troll on Jun 17, 2014 21:20:11 GMT -5
Wish it was that easy for the stator side of the case but the seal is installed and removed from the inside part of the case
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Post by Scooters To Go on Jun 17, 2014 23:02:39 GMT -5
I'm sorry to see that your seals are shifting and causing leaks. More recently we have been using a high temp RTV to hold these in place a little better. Just clean the surface and remove any residual oil from the crankcase where the seals contact, press the seal into place, then apply a layer of RTV from the outer half of the seal to the crank case. Let the RTV cure, and you should see a much longer life out of them.
As for the customer service issue you had over the phone, I will be sure to speak with our representatives and make sure we are all on the same page when it comes to listening to customer feedback. I will take note of your observations and ensure the integrity of our product is upheld. I am glad to see you have put some miles on your engine now and haven't been babying it too much as well.
If there is anything else you need or if you have any more concerns, feel free to contact me through PM and I'll give you my cell number for future interactions. We take our customer service seriously and this won't be disregarded.
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Troll
Scoot Enthusiast
Fastest 50cc in Upstate SC
Posts: 357
Location: Enoree, SC
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Post by Troll on Jun 26, 2014 8:17:29 GMT -5
Thanks, that's why I called to just give you guys a heads up. The seal I'm not worried about cause I already knew I was going to be wearing them out every so often. Even on a stock motor that's something you can't avoid. I do plan on ordering a new intake so I'll have one for the 26mm carb so when I get back to tuning it I won't have to keep clamping down one just one and take the chance if breaking it if I put my stock back on.
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