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Post by catchacuda on Oct 22, 2017 22:26:19 GMT -5
How is your jetting? How does the plug look?
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 21, 2017 12:11:03 GMT -5
Did it idle real low with no exhaust? When my exhaust was clogged up the idle went much higher when the exhaust was off, with no touching the carb.
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 18, 2017 22:05:48 GMT -5
I think Ryan-ott's compression and leak test advice is absolutely the way to start.
You mentioned you cleaned out your exhaust, and said a baffle is bouncing around in it. Was that baffle loose before you cleaned it? Did you try starting the scoot with the exhaust disconnected? Just thinking that loose baffle could potentially acts as a valve or restricion if it were to fall against an inlet in the exhaust. Like when you hit a bump and it stalled out, it could have been that baffle moving and choking the scoot.
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 18, 2017 14:07:43 GMT -5
Is your enricher working? Maybe try partially covering the air inlet while trying to start it, so that a richer a:f mixture is entering the engine.
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 18, 2017 7:20:43 GMT -5
A local garage could do a compression test. Places like autozone also loan out the tool so you could do it, be sure to hold WOT. Yes, a lack of adequate compression means you would have to find out why it's low, this will probably lead to a rebuild.
The idle mix screw typically opens or closes an air passage- IN is richer OUT is leaner.
Can we get a general idea on your location? Sometimes someone near has many tools, free time and a willingness to help out.
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 14, 2017 8:39:08 GMT -5
Atariguy have you any idea where to source a turbo small enough for one of these engines to run? I like the idea and have often thought about similar things. I simply have no idea where to find a turbo small enough to actually provide some boost in a useable rpm range.
Also, im not afraid of chinese "ebay" turbos in this instance. AFAIK, the cheapies fail from no restrictor in the oil feed, or high EGTs melting the cheap (non inconel?) exhaust turbine.
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 12, 2017 17:42:03 GMT -5
Im just speaking from my personal experience, I had a hell of a time diagnosing everything- with symptoms like no start, stalling, running poorly, etc. It all stopped when I unbolted the headpipe, allowing exhaust gas to bypass the system, and it suddenly started and ran fine (just ideling, didnt drive like that). I removed the pipe, put a tube in the headpipe (I wasn't putting my mouth on that thing lol) and could barley blow any air through. I had to mod my muffler internally to allow it to run right, even after scraping all the build-up out of the pipe where I could reach and burning out the rest. The muffler portion was literally an engine cork. Can't inhale very well when you can't exhale.
Just a simple test could at least rule it out.
I mean no offense by this, please don't take it the wrong way. You've had multiple threads for an issue that has never seemed to go away, and you've replaced the carb multiple times IIRC. Perhaps it's not carb related. I just hope to soon see you post something like-
"Guys it's running great!!"
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 12, 2017 6:33:37 GMT -5
Is this a healthy engine in terms of compression? You mention hearing a rush of air out of the exhaust sometimes when it dies. Could that sound be the release of built up exhaust gas that finally finds a way out of a clogged pipe?
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 10, 2017 22:50:19 GMT -5
Yes wd40, carb or brake cleaner, something flammable.
Modifying your tube could possibly mean having to rejet or tune, but a good seal is important.
Your fueling issue sounds important too though. Starving for fuel could cause a lean condition, and raise rpms. What size fuel lines are you using? Filter clean? Is your gas cap venting, along with the carb? Carb float height set correctly. I don't mean to be a nuisance, repeating myself from other posts. It's sometimes something small and overlooked that can cause major headaches.
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 10, 2017 20:20:51 GMT -5
Around the carb connections to the intake and air filter box. The intake to the case is good one to check too. Crank seals can leak too.
I and many others use an unlit propane torch. Some use wd40 or the likes. A change in idle speed when sprayed would indicate an air leak.
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 10, 2017 19:45:03 GMT -5
The bump causing a stall makes me think perhaps a critical wire is rubbed through somewhere and contacting ground. Just a thought.
The funky idle could indicate an air leak. Do you have something to spray around components to detect air leaks?
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 5, 2017 19:43:13 GMT -5
I'm only mentioning this because member lostforawhile is experiencing something perhaps similar. (I have with a two stroke as well) is the exhaust clogged? Easy test would be to loosen the headpipe enough to allow some exhaust gas to bypass the system. Does it still die like this? Of course, dont go cruising around like that, troubleshooting only
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 5, 2017 19:34:55 GMT -5
I've been there with a 2t! In one of those instances I chopped the muffler off and drilled a few holes through the baffles from both inlet and outlet and welded it back together. Could that be at least a temporary option for you?
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 5, 2017 12:14:52 GMT -5
Nice, enjoyed the video. I was in Ocean City in August. Have you seen the batmobile around there? Its a early-mid 70's Charger, spray bombed flat black with a TON of junk glued/attached to it??
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Post by catchacuda on Oct 3, 2017 10:36:01 GMT -5
Pinkscoot beat me to it ^
Indeed sounds like the oil feed line. That "second throttle assembly" is the oil pump. The engine was running without lube- that's scary! I'd worry about how the bearings and cylinder fared with no oil. If the line is hooked back up secure it with at least a small tight zip tie.
My curiosity would have me taking the cylinder off and inspecting things- that's just me though.
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