|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 30, 2017 22:29:27 GMT -5
Good post!
Is that from seller gy6store? Looks similar to the one I bought, though my ports weren't quite THAT bad (1st pic). I spent alot of time filing and sanding the ports and smoothing the port edges. A quick hone, many thorough washes, blasts of compressed air and I deemed it worthy of installing. Also have my durations at 186 & 124. Could have saved myself some time by purchasing a quality kit...
What are your porting weapons of choice?
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 28, 2017 20:27:07 GMT -5
I've personally seen a DC powered CDI gy6 have no spark because of a dead battery...
Youtube videos are an immense help for troubleshooting various components and wiring. Do you have a multimeter? Do make a point to troubleshoot, or parts get randomly replaced and it wastes valuable time and $$$
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 28, 2017 10:30:01 GMT -5
The one you show has the brass barb for the oil injection hose. Ive deleted it by removing the pump (2 phillips screws) and made a simple block off plate. Removing the flywheel and whatnot is to access and remove the plastic oil pump drive gear, and the pump can stay in place.
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 25, 2017 14:21:29 GMT -5
With an excess of por15 around, after some rear wheel arch repair on a Mazda 3, I've been waging a war on rust! I've lost a couple mowers over the years because of the worm, we'll see how this holds up. Lol maybe I should buy a new one instead of grabbing throw aways... I used por15 with great success on my first car, an 88 Dodge Daytona Pacifica. Repaired the floors from the front seats to the firewall, also had to patch the front wheel wells where they met the strut towers. Has anybody used any other products for rust with good results?
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 22, 2017 11:47:26 GMT -5
Most will recommend a name brand kit, such as Polini, Hoca for example.
I'd suggest sticking with a bbk, instead of rebuilding a 49 and finding that you want more power.
Myself, I bought a cheap $43 72cc kit from ebay. Came with the 47mm cylinder, piston, rings, pin, clips, needle bearing, cyl head, base gasket, head gasket and O ring. It was a discounted kit because the transfer ports needed some smoothing. I believe it was originally marketed as "Universal Parts BBK". What can I say, it works, it runs stronger than the 49cc did. Yet, a high end kit will surely be of better quality.
Which ever you choose, ensure you buy one with correct wrist pin size 10mm vs.12mm.
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 22, 2017 11:20:00 GMT -5
This thread is really bringing me back! ^Earthworm Jim^ yes yes yes!
Was anyone else a fan of Twisted Metal?
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 21, 2017 22:40:15 GMT -5
Arriving to this world in 1990-I remember playing original Nintendo games like duck hunt, the mario series, zelda. Used to have a couple boxes full of games. Super Nintendo brought me playing mortal combat, more mario. Sega intoduced me to sonic, sooo much sonic! N64 goldeneye was awesome-Period. Playstation got me into Crash Bandicoot, the Tony Hawk games, Matt Hoffman games, Driver. PS2- gta 3 was so impressive in comparison to its predecessors. Really enjoyed the Need for Speed games! After that, with XB360 I enjoyed Call of Duty in small doses... That's about it, kind of replaced games with other interests and responsibilities.
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 17, 2017 18:19:58 GMT -5
My first thought is maybe it is starving for fuel.
Do you run an on/off valve or a vacuum operated petcock?
Are all the connections (like the vent, vacuum barb) on the carb hooked up properly?
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 16, 2017 22:14:48 GMT -5
Was the slide positioned in the carb properly after you reassembled it? The small "ramp" at the bottom of a groove in the slide lines up with the idle speed screw, and there is another groove down the opposite side, that aligns with a "pin" in the slide's bore in the carb body. Incorrectly installing the slide can have it stuck at WOT.
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 16, 2017 20:11:52 GMT -5
I've never personally experienced anything ahead of the carb causing such symptoms, however it could run lean if more air flow is allowed. Other than that, I'd simply be repeating my 2¢ from your other thread.
Is getting a pic of the damage out of the question?
Are you located anywhere near NW PA?
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 11, 2017 21:55:06 GMT -5
Keep us updated!
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 11, 2017 21:26:09 GMT -5
You'll get it going!
Is the fuel fresh? Is the plug dry or wet after trying to start it? Is your gas cap vented, and actually allowing venting? That 90° vent tube on the carb allowing venting, and not plugged? Float level with the carb body? Fuel filter clean, allowing sufficient flow, same with the valve/petcock?
It indeed sounds like a fueling issue.
Although, and im sure it's not too common... I've also had similar symptoms with a 1e40qmb atv that had so much carbon build up in the exhaust that it acted just like that until it quit all together. It wouldn't even putt until I unbolted the headpipe from the engine! I put a tube in the exhaust inlet, tried blowing through it and I could barely get any air out of the end. Burned out the pipe and then modded the muffler internally to allow some flow.
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 8, 2017 11:03:00 GMT -5
Great to see this come together, nice work! I think this tool is something you should consider loaning out, at an appropriate price of course.
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 8, 2017 6:17:58 GMT -5
I only suggested it because I have experienced the same symptoms with bad gas or an extremely heavy oil ratio when someone else mixed it. I was trying to troubleshoot for a couple days. Finally drained the tank and carb, put in my own mix and was good to go ..so many hours wasted over something so simple lol
|
|
|
Post by catchacuda on Sept 7, 2017 21:06:01 GMT -5
Have you tried new fuel to rule out bad gas?
|
|