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Post by Zino on Dec 31, 2020 12:55:24 GMT -5
captain
before you toss that naraku cylinder on the scrap pile could you make a port map of it
for the port map database
It has got good reviews on its down low power ,but we dont have a map yet to compare to the malossi polini stage 6 cylinders
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 31, 2020 13:28:44 GMT -5
captain before you toss that naraku cylinder on the scrap pile could you make a port map of it for the port map database It has got good reviews on its down low power ,but we dont have a map yet to compare to the malossi polini stage 6 cylinders Yes I will attempt it. I’ve not done one before but I’ve seen them and think I understand the process. While I’m at it I’ll also make one for my stock 50cc Keeway jug. |
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 31, 2020 15:11:42 GMT -5
Giannelli flange. Admittedly easy to put on. I did clamp a 3/8” nut to the flange as a drill guide and off center the holes both counter clockwise facing the flange face. (Fffff) I removed maybe 1/8” of material in that direction allowing the pipe to rotate clockwise looking down at the center of the scoot. This picture is pre-drilling. After looks very much the same.  |
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Post by Zino on Dec 31, 2020 15:33:04 GMT -5
captain before you toss that naraku cylinder on the scrap pile could you make a port map of it for the port map database It has got good reviews on its down low power ,but we dont have a map yet to compare to the malossi polini stage 6 cylinders Yes I will attempt it. I’ve not done one before but I’ve seen them and think I understand the process. While I’m at it I’ll also make one for my stock 50cc Keeway jug. I use a bright light shining into the ports as I shade them . And then measure from the ports from the top of the cylinder in mm and width and height of each port here is brents write up 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/446 |
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 31, 2020 17:34:42 GMT -5
Since I replaced the cylinder I also paid attention to the throttle opening to see if the side is opening completely. It’s not. I have checked stuff and adjusted things but at full adjustment I still have slack in the cable and handle travel prior to cable take-up and the slide only opens 2/3.
I’m maxed out on the adjuster. Can I crimp a new end on the cable 3/8” down from where it is and start over? The ends are tiny. I’m used to the stoppers on garage door cable. I looked at ST.CA and I see some but not a generic kit......
Suggestions?
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Post by 190mech on Dec 31, 2020 17:52:48 GMT -5
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 31, 2020 17:58:45 GMT -5
Thanks. Too bad Hobby Lobby doesn’t have hobby parts. Hobby shops are getting to be harder to locate. Damn Am A Zon |
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Post by 190mech on Dec 31, 2020 19:14:15 GMT -5
I use 1/8" copper tubing that most auto parts stores have for oil pressure lines...
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 31, 2020 20:10:58 GMT -5
I have usually been able to work around this by fitting a different length elbow, or adjuster to the carb. It's easier to look through old carbs, than start soldering.
Dellorto do different length ones.
Are both adjusters maxed out?
That's a lot of power left on the table. 😯
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 31, 2020 20:43:26 GMT -5
I only have the old Chinorto carb which is identical to the new one I got from VMC. The adjuster at the carb-maxed. The one at the grip, was maxed but I adjusted it back down once I saw how the 1>2 cable box worked both cables. I removed my oil pump and I’m now on premix exclusively. I removed the oil pump adjuster cable from the system.
I looked at a lot of spacer options prior to giving up and asking for help.
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 1, 2021 4:21:32 GMT -5
If you can't solder a new nipple on. You might have to just order a new cable. You can usually see from the pictures how much slack they have. Just get one with less than your current one.
If you go that route I would just get a single cable and do away with the splitter.
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 3, 2021 19:56:56 GMT -5
Ok, I’ve got the throttle sorted. New end crimped on. Solder did NOT work. Made it too short, had to carefully use a grinder to slice 1/4” off the jacket. Took it out for a short ride. Trying to behave on a new cylinder is H A R D. I noticed it seems to run outta gas like, seems to stutter once it runs at high(ish) rpm awhile. 9k it acts this way.
Getting up to 9 is no problem but sustained travel at that rpm it burbles and acts like the plug wire is falling off. (It’s not this time....)
Do you think I’m still 5 high with jetting maybe? I’m hesitant to drop 5 points in main jet. It does accelerate much better with this kit than the last kit. That could be because I have a full set of needles in the wrist pin bearing though.
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 3, 2021 20:03:30 GMT -5
Reading back through my posts I had settled on an 80 main jet. This is only a 14mm carb. Yes I’m looking at new carbs. The Tun’r 17.5mm is cheap enough but also an unknown thing. Looks as it takes standard Dellorto parts. It also has a port in>out for running water through it in a LC setup to prevent icing.
Yeah yeah, spend the extra $30 and buy a damn Dellorto and don’t look back. I can’t help it, I’m a tightwad.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 3, 2021 22:47:02 GMT -5
Ok so the holes in the exhaust port aren’t quite the same from the Naraku to the Stage6. I’m gonna have to rework my exhaust/fender mount.  Could you do like we do with the V8 canister exhausts on the Chinarelli's, use longer bolts and use some old rollers as spacers. |
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 3, 2021 22:57:14 GMT -5
Ok so the holes in the exhaust port aren’t quite the same from the Naraku to the Stage6. I’m gonna have to rework my exhaust/fender mount. Could you do like we do with the V8 canister exhausts on the Chinarelli's, use longer bolts and use some old rollers as spacers. I was able to offset drill the flange just enough to make it ride over where it belongs. I used Vice grips to clamp a nut as a drill guide and elongate the mount holes. |
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