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Post by lunatuck on Jul 5, 2021 11:56:45 GMT -5
Couldn't you use exhaust assembly paste it it's the joint at the flange? Looks like that’s the plan now. This thing is a rocket! Only blipped WOT a few times and it flies!
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ingram
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 100
Location: Houston, TX
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Post by ingram on Jul 5, 2021 22:08:28 GMT -5
So it looks like the Trailtech spark plug temp sensor won’t mount on the Stage 6 MKII Sport Pro cylinder. The spark plug hole is recessed for the plug and squish ring and that prevents the spark plug from fully seating with the sensor installed. I’d love to find a way to install a temp sensor. Would love that added insurance. Eapecially with the aluminum cylinder. Most people dremel the head to make clearance for the sensor. I saw a post about it on a facebook group I'm on a few weeks ago. I'm trying to find the post so I can show you how it looks. edit: I see you already figured this out 2nd edit: found the pic! Nice I recognize this picture and my fingers! I have a build thread on here too and will be following this one as it is very similar now with my latest upgrades. I also had an issue with my City 16 exhaust flange leaking but mine has an o-ring so I replaced the o-ring and put a bunch of Honda bond as well and so far it's holding.
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Post by Zino on Jul 5, 2021 22:41:44 GMT -5
nice work Lunatuck . Its amazing what a little tuning can really wake these machines up
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 6, 2021 9:08:59 GMT -5
Got my jetting mostly setup. Pilot 45 (seems rich, but 42 was too lean), main 110(wish I didn’t break my 112)and needle clip is at the top.
I’m a litte concerned about the clip location because I never had a fully leaned out needle clip. Always thought top needle clip means change the needle, but it seems about right by feel. But I’m going to get the temp sensor on today.
Exhaust still has a slight leak, but that may just be the way it is. There’s no good way to get it fully aligned without welding a spring on the other side.
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 6, 2021 10:21:15 GMT -5
Temp gauge installed. Kickstand shows up today.
I have 30 break in miles on it and about to see what it really can do. But, I’ve noticed I don’t have the cajones to go WOT on my normal jetting run for long. It’s really fast!
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 6, 2021 11:07:16 GMT -5
Went on 10mi ride. Max temp I saw was about 270F. I only hit WOT for a little bit, but I think it’s in the safe range. Waiting on USPS for my kickstand.
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Post by Zino on Jul 6, 2021 16:00:55 GMT -5
A 10 mile ride is a good test for jetting With that throttle position you were mostly on the needle . So being in the Leanest position on the needle might be right on . The needle taper on that needle must stay real rich .
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 6, 2021 16:13:38 GMT -5
Kickstand installed.
Scooter is officially done. Well, it’s never done done, but it’s good for riding.
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 6, 2021 16:23:44 GMT -5
A 10 mile ride is a good test for jetting With that throttle position you were mostly on the needle . So being in the Leanest position on the needle might be right on . The needle taper on that needle must stay real rich . Yeah. It feels about right. Maybe a bit rich at 1/4 throttle, and that’s whats confusing me. I’m sure I’ll figure it out further as I use it more. It’s my first pwk, so I’m sure I’ll learn.
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 7, 2021 17:48:42 GMT -5
Newest issue…. Spark plug cap falls off the spark plug at 12000rpm. Probably from the vibration, but I notice the cap cover kind of gives it added tension.
Edit: Problem solved. Didn’t know the engine shroud had a tab that seats into the engine case. No more tension.
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 10, 2021 22:12:44 GMT -5
Tires changed to Boppers! Did it myself. (Pats self on back)
Doing some cvt work. Got a yellow spring and some 5.5g rollers. Hoping to mix the 5.5g and 3.7g rollers to keep the rps up. I had 4mm left on the variator with the oem contra spring and the 3.7g rollers. We will see. I felt the loss of acceleration with the oem spring. Hoping the yellow will help and give me full travel.
I still haven’t hit 60mph on it. Not because it won’t do it, but mostly because I don’t have the courage.
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 11, 2021 10:12:29 GMT -5
Yellow spring with 3 x 3.8g and 3 5.5g rollers seems to have great takeoff, but it feels like I'm not getting anywhere near full variator travel. Going to try 6 5.5g rollers. A white spring would probably be better.
So far these are the notes from the top of my head... Red spring 3.8g rollers - Killer takeoff, but about 12mm left of variator travel. OEM spring and 3.8g rollers - Good takeoff, but about 5-6mm left of variator travel. Still very fast top end. May be good enough for me. Yellow spring and 4.65g avg rollers - Very good takeoff, but top speed suffers a a lot. Similar to red and 3.8g.
Next up, I'm going to try yellow spring and 5.5g rollers. But, gotta work and lots of rain coming.
Also thinking about changing the rear end to get a one piece turn signal taillight combo. A repaint is also in the back of my mind.
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 12, 2021 21:17:16 GMT -5
Yellow spring and 5.5g rollers felt like a decent and very city rideable build, but it drops my shifting rpm to about 9600rpm and my top end to 10300rpm. That said, the build seems to make better power at 11000rpm or slightly more. So I’m thinking I’m going to go back to the oem spring with 3.8g rollers. I almost wish I could get a softer then oem torque spring.
The oem spring is shorter then the Malossi and I think that helps a lot. I’m even considering something like the Top Performance +15% torque spring which may let me do rollers in the 4g range.
It’s such a fine line, because what feels good in the city doesn’t feel punchy enough for some of the curvy back roads.
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Post by Zino on Jul 13, 2021 5:52:25 GMT -5
Do you have shims because your variator travel is 5mm and above . With your different combos The Malossi Drive face will let you get down to under 2mm .
The malossi torsion control is one way I get a notch better tension on each spring .
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Post by lunatuck on Jul 13, 2021 7:04:18 GMT -5
Do you have shims because your variator travel is 5mm and above . With your different combos The Malossi Drive face will let you get down to under 2mm . The malossi torsion control is one way I get a notch better tension on each spring . I am not currently using shims, but I have full inward travel on the variator. It’s the outside edge I need more travel on. I have the feeling if I shimmed the variator, I’d have belt slip. It’s just about perfect now, but needs some “optimization”.
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